Hawaii Big Island

Left Vinny on the mainland for a month for the tropical fish, tropical forests, manta rays, crashing waves, dolphins, jagged lava rocks, and time with family and friends. We went to Kaui for my 40th birthday in 2002

and we didn’t return until 20 years later. Now I have been here for the last three years in a row, just can’t get enough.

Kealakekua Bay MLCD

Now I have a girlfriend, Gertud, who has a Condo on the Big Island so Kailua-Kona will always be on the Hawaiian Itinerary. My favorite place on the Big Island is Kealakekua Bay MLCD (Marine Life Conservation District), specifically at the Lawai’a Sea Lodge. This year, it started with the Stenger-Smith “Circus” as Jenny, Mackie, Jazmine, Tony and Amy joined us for a week at the paradise VRBO in Kealakekua Bay followed by several days at Volcano National Park.

We were sad not to have Julie with us as she was having her own adventure with a job seeking VISA in Germany, but this was the last time she was in Hawaii.

Lawai’a Sea Lodge

This VRBO had been found by the Radlers during the previous year when Gertrud found the low ceiling basement apartment, very last minute and the gem of this remote, right on the ocean accommodation was discovered. No basement this trip, the Circus was in the main house where an incredible deck commanded the view of Kealakekua Bay MLCD (Marine Life Conservation District.) The VRBO came with Stand Up Paddle Boards, Kayaks, boogie boards and all kinds of items you could just go up to the tent and remove whenever you wanted.

The Lawai’a House was a snorkeling paradise after you made your way through down the plank ramp and the lava rock crags that protected passage to the sea were beautiful tropical fish flitted about.

A bit stressful at first because this far from a smooth sandy beach, and as the waves crashed into the little lava rock lagoon and you had to time your entry so as not to smash against any of the boulders that lined the passage. This tiny protected“Circus lagoon” had an abundance of hiding places for all those colorful fishes and the clear shallow water made for excellent viewing when the waves were not crashing. By the end of the week, we had gotten our snorkel legs and this passage was a ho-hum act and we loved just being able to SUP or snorkel on whim.

Dolphins

Dolphins would frolic playfully through the bay as snorkelers, swimmers and kayakers were out not chasing them (another $1000 fine) but just happened to have inadvertent encounters.

We were one of those lucky ones and got to see the show as they came right up to us and I was GoPro Ready and got to record a bit of their show. In 2022 we saw dolphins swim up to snorkelers and just frolicked around; This happened on many days and one reason we wanted to come back to this place. Gertrud said that they swam with her in Kailua Bay. We were so hooked on dolphins and this was our closest recorded encounter, but there were others as the Circus act of the kayaks and SUPs paddled out to Captain Cook Monument.

It was about 1 mile long through choppy waters, not so bad for the kayaks but a bit challenging for Ringleaders John and I, who were on the SUPs. But we made it with the intention of stringing up the vessels and having one Circus performer holding onto them as the others snorkeled.

Although I had been adamant about bringing a long rope (bright orange acquired from Vista) the Circus admin forgot it and the plan had to be abbreviated. There was no organization in the Circus ring and the tie up job ended in the flotilla getting very close to the shore and the falling cliffs as it became windier. Jazmine finally got the knots un-done and we all got some snorkeling in, but several show details will be amended if performing next-time.

1) Leave early before the tour boats get into the area because there is less chance of bumping into other snorkeling enthusiasts.

2) Notice how the current/wind is moving so that the Circus starts up in the suitable direction.

3) Don’t forget the props(rope) just to name a few.

Needless to say, the ring leader’s act of SUPing all the way to the Monument impressed/inspired the rest of the Circus performers to try their balance at Stand-Up. Somehow the acrobatic team had no problem with SUP.

Dolphins perform jumps and twists several times a day, but then there had been a 5.1 earthquake near Volcano National Park which we had not even noticed, but we’re excited at the thought of seeing lava that sometimes spouts after earthquakes. No such luck.

During the last two days, we never saw any dolphins in our Kealakekua Circus ring again, even though conditions seemed the same as in the beginning of our stay. Perhaps, it was due to the earthquake.

Manta Rays

The Manta Ray Night Snorkel was the second most favorite Big Island Adventure.

The manta rays were absolutely incredible as these gentle giant plankton sucking rays passed so close that they sometimes swiped us unexpectedly. It was an exceptional night for manta viewing as our captain indicated about eight different 1000-pound rays traveled under our boards as we held tight and I had the GoPro Session of all GoPro Sessions.

Evidently the Big Island is the only place where manta rays were discovered to congregate near the bright lights that attract plankton, their main food source. Now they made it into a really cool tourist attraction complete with wet suit shirts and ankle floaties for comfort as you had your face in the water with snorkel equipment. Here is 7 minute incredible video if you have time.

Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park

“The Place of Refuge ” was only a few miles up the road and is a very Sacred Place on the Big Island.

This is where native criminals and prisoners would find forgiveness and a new beginning of life if they could only get there over the treacherous lava rocks and severe ocean currents. Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park was only a few miles from our paradise and during 2022, we happened to encounter a ceremony where long boats made a journey through several different Hawaiian holy places to mark this tradition.

Lekeleke/Kuamo’o Burial Grounds

This is another sacred burial place that was quite beautiful with crashing waves, lots of wild goats and a stinky cheese Noni Fruit tree.

Green Sands Beach

John and I stopped at the burial grounds on the way to Green Sands Beach in 2021, but we got to the green sand too late to actually hike the 2 ½ miles and then get down there with enough time to be back while still light. However, the Circus trip in 2023 was adhering to strict instructions to leave our Lawai’a House paradise by 9:30 so we could have an entire day for this hike followed by Southpoint excursion and Turtles at Black Sands Beach which is on the way to the Volcano NP where we stayed right in the National Park at the Kilauea Military Camp (KMC).

We opted out of the $20 pick-up-and-hold-on-for-dear-life rides

that were available in the parking lot for a beautiful walk along the coast in red-clay soil that loved to stick to our mineral sunscreen lathered bodies in the wind.

As we approached the beach and saw flip-flopped little children go down, John and I also thought we could too. It was really much easier than it had looked in 2021.

and we all made it down in one piece although John tested his hip replacement longevity when he had slipped earlier in the hike. He fell directly on it, but had no negative effects so down to the beach we ventured on ladders and switch backs.

Perfect time for a nap under the eroded lava cave.

South Point

After the Green Sands Beach hike, as per our strict Circus production manager’s timeline, a short drive to cliffs of South Point. The churn sea hole is also quite impressive.This is the most southern point of the US, where you can observe the curvature of the earth. The South Point 50 ft cliffs were supposed to be where natives dive into the churning waters below, but this is the third time I have been here and there are mostly fishermen on these cliffs. Best cliff photo was Caroline in my 2022 visit.

If you are making a day excursion, Green Sands to South Point to Black Sands and the Volcano NP, I would recommend stopping at the Punalu’u Bake Shop before hitting the Black Sands Beach. Caffeination and a sweet were desperately needed as evening approached (closes at 5pm), and it’s right off the highway with lots of parking. Hopefully some of the bread pudding and malasadas, Portuguese donuts will be left. There is a nice outdoor eating area too.

Punalu’u Black Sands Beach Park

There are always been sea turtles resting on the beach and they are protected by the yellow caution tape so you can just take photos.

In 2023 there was a monk seal on the beach. We had not done the Bake shop and were too tired to even get a photo of him.The black sand is really something different, and it is an easy walk to sea and the wildlife in this Park.

If you have not planned well, like a Lasagna to pop in the oven, the Lava Lounge and restaurant is available to eat before falling into bed, ready to hike and explore the Volcano NP in the next day.

Volcano NP

The Kilauea Volcano is not erupting currently so there is not really any glowing orange flow to be seen, although in November of 2022 Mauna Loa did some spewing and Gertud recorded the molten lava as it flowed dangerously near the Saddle Road which is the main thoroughfare connecting Hilo to Kona. Back to Volcano NP and Kilauea Ike Crater Rim, 3.2 mile Loop Trail is the most popular trail as you get to hike through the rainforest to the 1 mile long cauldron.

John and I did it in 2021, and in 2023, we decided to do a rest day and not accompany the Circus that morning. We needed a rest after Green Sands in 2023. We met up for lunch at the Thurston Lava tubes which was on the loop. A lava tube is a natural conduit that is formed by flowing lava from a volcanic vent that moves beneath the surface. There are lots of these all around Hawaii, and you can walk through the Thurston Lava Tube and it is very cool and damp.

Heading down Mount Kilauea to the Ocean to see the most recent land increase to the Big Island, we stopped at the Mauna Ulu Eruption Trail. Our enthusiastic Philly accented National Park Volunteer had told me this was his favorite hike in the park, and suddenly I saw it, and veered quickly off the main road with quite the uproar by the Circus.

Lots of interesting lava presentations and deep cracks

And cool caves with ferns.

Continuing to the sea, The Hoelei Sea Arch which someday may soon fall into the ocean was at the end of the road.

Our Gypsy Guide had severely warned us against going on these cliffs as they are unstable and could crash into the ocean at any time. It was a bit underwhelming since it was probably at least a half mile away. In 2013 Gertrud was able to stand on it, but we couldn’t even get close.

Eroding and adding land mass, as well as different lava presentation depending upon cooling time, heat and pressure of the eruption is all over this National Park.

The other fun thing to do if staying at the KMC is to go bowling especially when we are all in our matching Hawaiian shirts. The Lava Lounge, General Store and Bowling alley all within walking distance of the cottages.

Snorkeling

There are many places to snorkel and so much depends on weather and water clarity, but I will present a few of my favorites that I have hit for the last 3 years.

Kealakekua Bay is the best at Captain Cooks Monument.

The only way to get there is by boat or a killer hike which starts on the road and is really tough coming up with all your gear/water as per our neighbor and no kayaks may touch the monument step.

In 2021 we took a catamaran tour that left from Kailua-Kona Pier.

It was beautiful and Captain Cook Monument was among the best as far as variety of fish and the long reef. Therefore I was determined to do it again, this time on kayak in 2022 and on SUP in 2023 both from the Lawai’a Sea Lodge VRBO.

All the time, it was exquisite and I made a 5 minute movie of the best clips from 2022. If you can’t get this VRBO or boat, there are two places nearby to get in and snorkel. (Manini Beach near Napo’opo’o Park and Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park. Captain Cook Monument is still 1 mile away but the snorkeling, especially from Manini Beach is very good, but you need to avoid rocks and sea urchins, not for the beginner. Since Kealakekua Bay MLCD is Marine Life Conservation District you can not set foot on the beach around the Monument or anywhere north of Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park. In 2022 there was a massive fish ball that we observed on two different days, mostly the reason dolphins came through several times a day. You are not allowed to chase the dolphins, but there are inadvertent encounters like we had as these creatures are naturally curious. The cliffs can be unstable and we were warned not to get too close. I plan to do Captain Cook every time I am on the Big Island.

If you are staying in Kailua-Kona, Kamakahonu Beach right in front of the Marriott Courtyard, has an amazing variety of fish for this busy area. This is a public sandy beach that turns rocky after 200 feet and there were a surprising number of fish although sometimes it is a bit cloudy, no coral unless you swim out around the point. If you swim by the historic area of King Kam sacred Area – going onto land near these grass/reed structures is forbidden, but swimming around it has lots of fish and it is so easy to enter this water, great place for timid snorkelers. My favorite little black and white spotted puffer fish gave me a show very close to the entry.

You can even do Stand Up Paddle Boarding. Showers are right there on the pier and easy to get out and have ice cream or drinks at the outdoor cafe at the Courtyard. Downside is it can get crowded and since it is small. There is a Kona Boys rental shack for kayaks, SUP, Snorkel Gear, Chairs, Umbrellas etc – bring your money because it’s expensive. There is very little shade although we set up in the grass and sometimes one can find a bit, but it is perfect for the beginner snorkeler, and so easy to get in and out.

Beach 69 has shade, but watch out for the thorns from the tree. It is very pleasant to sit and relax as well as swim and snorkel, on the point of the northern end of the lava rocks.

The 2023 visibility was bad, but in 2022 it was excellent and we went up the north side to the point of the cove where there is a cool hole in the coral and a very timid spotted fish. Going north along the cove has a more protected sandy beach for swimming and entry, but if you turn left and head south, it is less crowded and you still can enter easily. Lots of shade.

Kahalu’u Beach Park has a covered area, bathrooms and volunteers a great place to snorkel, but a bit crowded.

I love the parrot fish. In 2022, we arrived via hitchhike because our trolley stop was on Hawaiian time and never came.

Beaches

Kohanaiki Beach Park a good surfing beach, and is a bit of a secret beach off Hulikoa Dr. This land borders a very exclusive golf country club and is a supreme surfing spot.

Beaches in Hawaii must be accessible by the public, so the developer put in a road so that surfers could get to the beach. With the new pavement on Hulikoa road came the understanding that there would be no advertisements on the main road or tourist brochures ~ making it a local phenomenon that Gertud knew about. We saw acrobatic surfing here.

Ala Kahakai a Natioanl Historic Trail is found from Kohanaiki Beach Park and there are some exhibits including a hale which is a thatched reed hut used for Hawaian ceremonies and so many different types of birds and banana trees.

Perhaps the Aloha spirit is brought out in a map that is displayed here as it shows how each tribe has a small section of ocean and their land area moves to the mountains. No fighting over beachfront property.

Spencer Park is on the northwest part of the Island near Waimea. There is shade and we saw many Nene,the protected Hawaiin goose of the many goose crossing signs you see along the Hawaiian roads. This is not a good snorkeling spot. This park closes one or two days a month for maintenance so make sure to check before driving all the way up there.

Rainforests

The Big Island has 8 different climate zones including an unexpected desert area. The rainforests make it optimal for growing coffee and chocolate and there are an abundance of farms.

Thunder Mountain Coffee up the mountain toward Mauna Kea is where we learned what makes peaberry coffee so expensive (a mutation of sorts producing small not flat beans that are hand sorted). Walked around the plantation in the gentle rain and got some delicious samples. Not sure the extra expense is worth it in my palette.

Rainforest Hiking at Makuala O’Oma Trail is a 3.4 mile loop trail located near Kailua Kona, Hawaii, Hawaii that features beautiful wildflowers and is rated as moderate. If you don’t want to hike in the rain, you need to look up to the rainforest from Kailua in the morning and only set off if the mountain is clear. It rains there often, almost every afternoon. Thunder Mountain Coffee is a stop on the way up to this trailhead.

Hilo on the East side of the Island claims to be the wettest city in the US and is home to a Rainbow Falls and a beautiful Banyan Tree and can easily be the day after the Volcano National Park excursion.

Lavola Chocolate Farm near Hilo on the covered extendo-golf cart was where we learned from where all those chocolate delights come. We got to taste the raw coffee beans (each one having antioxidants equal to 40 blueberries) before tasting many delicious varieties of the finished product that we know and love as chocolate.

Never made it to Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Farm but this is in the area and surely there are free samples.

Waikoloa Village has one mainstream Vacation Timeshare Villa after another, but I think you can get into the very upscale Waikoloa Hilton Hotel if staying in another Waikoloa Hilton property that is nearby and on the free tram that takes you all over the village.

The Hilton Hotel at Waikoloa Village is an older hotel compared to the huge amount of timeshares. It is like an art museum and has so many impressive artifacts around the ground, not to mention a tram and fleet of Hilton Motorboats.