We are here for the snorkeling!
There are so many places to snorkel in Maui although the weather has been a bit uncooperative this year.
Luckily the concierge at the front desk told us about the Maui Snorkel Report > The Snorkel Store > scroll down to see the rating of the day at the North Shore, Ka’anapali, and South Shore. I have also got the Windy App and it does a really good job at showing the 3 hour chunks for a week into the future. This means we needed to head down south because the Kaanapali area was a bit wild and even got a 0 for one day.
Upon arriving at Sands of Kahana resort it was wildly windy, but they had quite a nice small beach where many were riding the waves. The parking and going in and out was easy, and they had a complete set of vessels, surf boards and toys that could be rented, but it was always quite windy.
But of course we couldn’t start snorkeling until we saw the Eagles game on Monday in the outside bar and beach restaurant that is part of the resort. And given the game we should have gone snorkeling, but at least they had Maui Coconut Porter to comfort my Paddle Boy.
We scored an ocean view on the first floor and were happy we didn’t have to be in the elevator when the power went out all over the Lahaina area last night. Instagram said snapped poles were reported and we were happy that it only lasted about an hour. It was so nice listening to the crashing waves all night long they never lost power. Okay back to snorkeling, and our favorite spots within the weather recommended area.
Ulua Beach
This is where we saw our first turtles this trip.
They are so laid back and graceful. John found one hiding under a ledge and he eventually came out and gave us a show as whale calls could also be heard. There was another that came so close to me I had to back away. They are such graceful easy going sea creatures just like Hawaii.
In 2021, we had seen two turtles fighting over a piece of fish, and they were so engaged in the fight that we were able to get up close and observe. No GoPro then, thanks Scott for this birthday gift and all those beautiful in-the-water memories of my travels from now on!!
At Ulua Beach we discovered a cute little fish that is called the Avela, or common name Christmas Wrasse. How appropriate for our Christmas time sighting.
We would later see a larger one at Black Rock that kept swirling around and around as the waves crashed on top.
Another little shy speckled friend that never moved even when I tried to get up close.
We really like this beach because there is some shade, it’s relatively small, and there are nice rinse off showers.
Po’olenalena/Changs Beach
After Ulua while still in exploring mode, was our next stop. Although quaint, it had no rinse off shower. Perhaps it’s the reef safe zinc sunscreen, but I always feel extra sticky after a snorkel session. Also we went to Makena State Beach which is a mile long with no showers but quite popular with multiple parking areas. This beach is not necessarily good for snorkeling, is what I found out later, but there is a clothing optional “Little Beach” if you make your way up a narrow path and over the hill.
On our way back, we stopped for a beer at the Shops of Wailea. Parking at the furthest end of the Wailea Shops Parking Lot will allow an entrance to the Wailea Beach Path. Here we took a sunset stroll along all the fancy hotels and properties of Wailea. In between the fancy hotels there are straight unmanicured paths to the Ocean which we saw in both Wailea and Kaanapali; this allows locals to access beaches without going through hotels. It seemed like this southern part of Maui was consistently better weather for snorkeling in December. This area may be a “next time”.
It was nice using our legs in a non-kicking way as we took a sunset stroll. We would return again the next day because of the best snorkel reports in the area. We would transfer to the Marriott Ocean Club in the Kaanapali area. The most difficult part about the area is how to pronounce Kaanapali; Gertrud tried to teach me our final night at Huggo’s after several Mitais.
Black Rock Beach
was about ½ mile down the beach path. Here we saw another Turtle, although he was far down in the sand and swam away quite deliberately. We also found a section that was relatively clear and got to watch the fish swim through the crashing waves. Specifically, this area is around to the right, of the point, but up close to the rocks.
Further away in this area, visibility was poor, and we almost went back, but then we ventured in up close to the crashing and got used to the swells pushing us around. It was a bit rough, but relatively shallow and you could see the fish up close, and they were getting pushed around too. We swam out and took a bit of a break, but both of us wanted to go back for more. Here we saw a large Christmas Wrasse body surfing over and over again in the crashing surf.
Another Black Rock advantage is the lovely eating areas. We started with fish lunch at the Hula Girl and ended with Monkey Pod Happy Hour (great deal 1⁄2 price appetizers). We met Nicole from Austin, die hard Pittsburg fan, who has a boyfriend from Jersey and his Aunt and Uncle live in Egg Harbor. Dad always gets super excited about these coincidences, and she had to text her boyfriend several times to get the details.
Lots of smiles from people as we dressed up in our Hawaiian shirts and walked the two miles to the famous Duke’s for an early dinner.
The most popular Hawaiian fish, the Humuhumunukunukuapua’a , and we saw them consistently.
However, they are so skittish that it is hard to get close, but I really tried all week to get some good footage from Black Rock We found a new round yellow black dotted fish that were a lovely couple exploring the reef, just like John and I.
There is nothing like swaying with the ocean watching fish in the blue, warm water in Hawaii. Another beautiful snorkeling day watching people jump off the 15 ft high Black Rock.
Molokini Crater MLCD (Marine Life Conservation District) is a volcanic island that has an area of 23 acres, a diameter of about 0.4 miles and is 161 feet at its highest point, and is located off the southern coast of Maui. It is among the best snorkeling in Hawaii and we found it to be beautiful and clear and found many fish varieties (4min movie) that we had not seen before. We saw the coolest purple fish who just swam around in circles for a long time; we ended up leaving because he was making us dizzy.
The problem is that it is pretty deep and most coral is located over 15 to 20 feet below, so to get close requires diving down. The tour had something called Snuba for an extra $70 you could go down attached to the air tanks above the boat. But then you are pretty tethered to the boat and always around the gaggle of Snuba Divers. We found this to be way more crowded than Captain Cook’s Monument on the Big island with all the large tour boats that came out. In the typical tour fashion, everything is extra from our wetsuit tops to the red filter I rented for the GoPro. The photographer had me set the camera on Wide Field of View but then everything was even further away. I like to dive and chase fish, but I could hardly see because of the WFOV. Crew was extremely nice and helpful. Iit was a beautiful way to spend Christmas surrounded by fish rather than family and friends.
We also saw our first whale tails and there were several different far-away encounters on the boat ride out. Evidently January/February are the best months for whaling off of Maui.
Waihee Ridge Trail
Waihee Ridge Trail, 4 mile 1443 ft elevation gain, Take 2. We had done this in 2021, but it was socked-in with fog pretty early into the hike. We decided we wanted to do it again.
This time it was too, but only for the last 200 feet or so, so we got to see the actual ridge this time and our shoes got very muddy.
Nakalele BlowHole
Is on the Northern tip of Maui was a bit of a disappointment because it hardly spouted even though it was supposed to do so. We were a bit disappointed after I remembered the magnificent Halona Blowhole on Oahu from 20 years ago. We didn’t bother in 2023, although in 2021 we got a great photo of Scott holding up the rainbow in this area.
Iao Needle
(2,250 ft peak of Kuka Emoku) is another interesting natural phenomenon where the sides are super steep but are lushly green. From the Waihee Ridge you can see this deep green canyon like that of Iao Valley,
Haleakala Volcano
dormant since the 1700’s has an amazing view of the area and of course the crater and the many cones. The summit was way up there and you could see down the crater as well as downward toward the ocean until the clouds started rolling in.
It was our last day and I had been trying to get the sunrise pass because recreation.gov only releases 50 passes, 2 days before and I was just not quick enough on the days we wanted to go. They also release passes 60 days before and if one is a bit organized like I usually am, I would have been prepared. It had been forecasted to be cloudy much of the week, so I was waiting for a clearer day.
Later in the day, as the clouds roll in, the rich colors become even deep shades of rust.
A time-lapse fog rolling in at the end of the day gives an idea of how fast the change is; it was very cool and a rainbow peaked through.
We went for the day and watched the sunset which was also quite nice. We had also been warned that if you go for sunrise, bring warm clothes because it can be in the 30’s. If you take a tour they provide all that. I think that optimal would be to get up there by 4am and enjoy the stargazing that is also incredible on a clear morning.
Slaughterhouse Beach / Honolua Mukule Bay
was a lovely small beach with shade, but it was too rough for us to snorkel in 2021. Instead, we found a sleepy turtle who was all by himself on this really deserted beach.
We would return here later in the week because this beach was small, and the rocky outcrops looked like good snorkeling, but it continued to be too rough. Finally we got out early on our last day and had a nice swim. I didn’t know about the Maui Snorkel Report in 2021, but it seems like the northern part of the Island where Slaughter Beach Is located had the worst conditions for most of the weeks in December 2023.
Olowalu Beach Mile Mark 14, provided a nice snorkel place although it was quite shallow to get out and there were plenty of sea urchins to avoid as you entered the water. There were a lot of fish to be seen and John even saw an octopus.
The Road to Hana
Paia Coffee House
Was the first stop in 2021, and we liked it so much that John and I would also return in 2022 before departing for our red-eye.
They have a really cool music venue that is out-door and under the covered patio where a highly energetic slide guitarist was getting down.
Hookipa Surfing Beach
which faces the North and the swells are perfect for surfing. This is the longest ever surfer in action that I have ever seen.
Ke’anae Peninsula
and Aunt Sandy’s Banana Bread next all along the Road to Hana. 
Wailua Falls
a stop right along the Road to Hana.
‘Ohe’o O Gulch (Sacred Pools and Waterfall)
Unfortunately the pools were closed to swimming as it had recently rained but walking around the grounds was just beautiful and made for the best photo of the trip of the three us in 2021.
Serpico’s for Pizza, this is one of the only restaurants open later and on the way home whether from a long day on the Road To Hana in 2021 or after the Sunset a Haleakalā Crater in 2023.
The famous Lahaina Banyan trees, our 2021 afforded us a visit to this magnificent grove in the center of Lahaina, but the fire of August 2023 devastated the city. There is a bypass that goes around the town and few burned out to be seen by the tourists except for the one area where school children have colored banners to place over the fence that allow for a glimpse of the devastation of this horrible flash fire that ripped through.
Each resort area has a small section where tents have been allowed to be set up and there are meeting places for supply distribution and whatever else is being administered. “Maui Strong” and “Lahaina Strong” signs, some temporary, some in permanent metal letters are displayed in the tourist areas, as people try to get back to business, scarred but going strong. No doubt the people will rebuild Lahaina and the city will endure.
Reflections
Aloha is the word that means so much. You can drive with Aloha, say hello and good-bye with Aloha, it is a word that means kindness and warmth with the business of human expression. We heard Guitar Uncle Jimmy twice as we walked back from Monkey Pod and Dukes. He exuded Aloha, and would get his looper playing and then go out to the audience with his guitar and talk to people. He was a local for some 40 years and told stories of positivity.
More Aloha, with Dr. Sova who offered us his SUP to use. I had a knee issue that started when I twisted it on my way into the pool at Gertrud’s house. The swelling and pain went away after babying for a few weeks, but oh, was it ever stiff when I had to move from a bent position. I had never had arthritis in this knee, why now all of a sudden. Dr. S said he thinks there is no damage after prodding, but I had wanted to get on the bandwagon with some Physical therapy if he thought it was useful. John and I got to talking with him and had told him of our van life, and John got his humor over some old Movie, and we actually chatted for quite some time. He texted me the next morning and with a link to copper knee sleeves he had found at Costco. I replied that people who live in Vans give up their Costco membership. It was then that he offered to meet us and give me one…then he said we should use his SUPs. Not realizing that we were so far away as we were an hour drive.way. But this is Aloha to the stranger.
December can produce not optimal weather in Hawaii, the swells are bigger and variable, looking out one side of the condo was raining and the other side sun, coming and going just like that. Rainbows would be there and instantly disappear. December is still a great time for us to get away from the non-optimal camping weather that is in most parts of the U.S. Good thing we decided to stay here for the month and so lucky that the week that the kids came for the week at the Big Island we had excellent weather.
More Aloha on the Big Island as we met Shawna and Shelly, and Verna and Tommy along with other sister-in-laws and friends at the Ola Brewery.
All started when we tried to introduce Gertrud to playing games at breweries, which is a thing on the mainland, but not something that is done in Austria. Spades of course and we were relegated to a back room on a couch/coffee table situation, perfect for John as he prefers lounging rather up-straight sitting. Of course there is alway lively discourse when playing spades, and before we knew it another party had joined us in the back room in the other couch setting. Soon we exchanged conversations with much Aloha and they told us they come here every Thursday and meet family and friends since Ola has been in business and this coming Saturday they would be having their 6 year anniversary. John loved the Keawe Vanilla Porter, and we put it on our final night on the Big Island Plan. Well outside there was lots of loud music and not our scene and they only serve Kiawe from the inside. So there we went and found a table. The back room was having a private tasting of the brewery’s newest addition, not available for sale yet, Okolehao, This is a moonshine of sorts, brewed from ti plant (evergreen flowering plant) root that are oh so prevalent on the Islands. Truly an entrepreneurial venture that is unique and naturally sustainable in Hawaii.
More Aloha on the earlier on the Big Island as we went to a fundraiser comedy show right across the street from Gertrud at the Elk’s Club. We were overwhelmed with the friendliness of Jessy and Trisha, and Gertrud was ready to sign up as a member, but she failed in the US citizen category of the four requirements. We almost have her convinced to become a US citizen, after all I am working on becoming a German citizen.
My pursuit of German Citizenship. Julie has spent the last 5 months in Germany trying to find an architectural job but not having too much success as her Visa will expire mid February. Since it appears that I am eligible for German citizenship (I was born before Ma got her US citizenship) that would make my children eligible. If she had dual German citizenship the extra hurdle that is required for her potential employer to sponsor her for a Visa, would not be needed and perhaps this is a reason that she has not been so successful. The Miami consulate sent forms to fill out and get notarized and we don’t even need to apply in person.
Travels with Vinny VanGo 