Kauai (May & December 2025)

The lush green of Kauai immediately dominates your senses. Mix that with the red clay soil and you have a Sedona-like calmness that these two colors are supposed to bring to us humans, but there is no talk of vortexes here.

So many beautiful beaches and oh the 430am rooster crowing is part of the landscape.

It has been 25 years since I first set foot on this island. My 40th birthday was celebrated right here with the family and Ma. With 6 year-old Jazmine, 9 year old Jenny and 12 year-old Julie, we had post-Christmas festivities. I remember Jazmine dancing across the pool bridge and snorkeling at very protected snorkeling area at Lydgate Park – perfect for kids.

Now this year it is twice to Hawaii and twice to Kauai for me. In May with my Radler girlfriends and in December with the family.

Debbie and I arrive first using our retired DOD civilian status to score a cancellation at the Barking Sands Beach Cottages. The Pacific Missile Range Facility ( PMRF) is at the end of the road before the Napali Coast begins and pavement goes no further. Of course there was a bit of stress because Pass and ID said we needed a second form of ID like a passport or Social Security Card, both of which we didn’t have. Frantically, I started looking for other options for these 3 nights. But no worries, this is Hawai’i and my DOD retirement card was fine even though they are taking those away and issuing DIBS cards for every base now, or programming the ID so guards can scan your Driver’s License Real ID as was the case with Debbie. The woman just said when you come back she should bring her passport and then they would allow us to bring non-DOD people on base too. So easy, so Aloha. We had a beautiful cottage right near the beach. Evidently the beach is not so good for swimming here because of rip currents and roughness. Wow.

Napali Coast

Back to the Napali Coast —Taking in the incredible scenery is only possible by sea, helicopter or super long dangerous hike. We had seen the photos and this was the one thing that I absolutely wanted to see.

The eroded green covered mountain ridges are massive and project upward to about 4000 ft. Although experienced hikers make the 17.8 mile hike, I read that the area is inhabited by “feral hippies” who the state pretty much lets alone.

40 foot Catamaran Tour during May with Debbie

We took the 7 hour snorkel/cruise on a 40 ft Catamaran under power not sail and we were up with the roosters that morning as we were underway as the sun was rising. No sailing on this boat, just a lot of bouncing up the coast holding on. I got in trouble several times for not being attached to the rail or seated. Evidently the rough deck material is perfect for a nice rug burn upon impact, and that is not good for tourism. We rode and smashed down on waves up the coast. Then it was a U-turn, and a more gentle glide down the rolling turquoise sea where the captain told us details and history of the Napali and stopped to look at some caves into which smaller boats could go – a bit scary in my book. The views were absolutely incredible and we felt lucky to have sun and even saw a few spinner dolphins.

The route would take us 17 miles west to the secret island of Niihau, and then snorkel near the Lehua Crater and head back. Although the Secret Island can only be accessed by the Native people who are born there and reject all the modern conveniences like plumbing and electricity, it has quite a picturesque rock hole in the wall, but other than that not so exceptionally beautiful when compared to Napali. The folklore and history is quite interesting and entertaining.

The people of this “forbidden island”make beads out of puka shells and these necklaces are supposed to be extra shiny and beautiful. They can be hundreds or thousands of dollars evidently. The Navy donated a boat and supplies are brought up on the sandy shore periodically. Children attend school on the mainland of Kauai and as one could expect, the population is dwindling because kids find out about the modern world and don’t want to live isolated and primitively. The population in 2020 was 84 down from 170 just 10 years earlier.

Johnathan tested the Lehua crater waters and found the current to be a bit strong for snorkeling so we juggled to a different spot. The snorkeling was disappointing compared to the Big Island and Maui. There was an underwater rock ledge about 15 feet down where most of the fish were as well as some arches that were a bit too deep for me. Only a few varieties of fish way down under. Returning to the boat there were a bunch of queasy green looking people and luckily I found some pretzels which helped with the rocking. We were underway and enjoying the rocky holes-in-the-wall of Niihau contrasting to the aqua blue waves.

The trip back to the mainland was a bit long and bouncy. In doing it again, we would not recommend the Niihau excursion, but we went through a pod of dolphins who playfully swam with our boat.

The tourist boat trips usually don’t run in the winter or they are many times re-directed to less exciting waters.

Johnathan, our guide and seasick nurse said our day was typical as far as roughness goes, but as far as Debbie was concerned it was a “never again” experience. We lucked out on a beautiful warm day with no rain which would have made it cold on the way home. Of course, Kileaua erupted again for the 2nd time the day after we left the Big Island so not so lucky as far as spouting hot lava goes, as our sunny day on the Napali coast. Evidently, Napali Coast is the 8th Wonder of the World

Zodiac Raft Tour 2025 December with the Family

The 25 feet raft with dual large motors provided the 12 guests with a much different experience during the beginning of the winter swell season in December. A 1 inch wide nylon band ran around the bottom so you would tuck your bare feet under to hold on and prevent from going over the side during a particularly bumpy wave. A similar nylon band ran around the top of the Zodiac tube where people sat and had to hold on with hands as well. There were two princess seats in the boat center which were supposed to be shared by members to provide a rest for hand, arm, and back workout that happened as a result of holding one.

As the elders of the group, most members did not want to take a turn here, so John and I sat pretty here for most of the three hours and their insistence – oh the benefits of age. We had been warned that the journey would require strength and strong backs.

Although we had some rainy weather, the temperature was warm and we were not cold with our jackets on.

Swells were too big to venture inside the caves, but this smaller vessel allowed us to get close to the beautiful coastline and waterfalls.

Twice we stopped to hop in the ocean for a luscious swim in the swells.

I never felt sea sick in the slightest on the zodiac because the fast speed of this dual engine provided more of pounding bounce like an amusement park ride rather than the swaying that was experienced when the 40 foot catamaran was stopped for snorkeling and was gently swaying in the waves. Princess seating allowed me to take a bunch of videos of the Zodiac ride and I made a family movie of this adventure.

Napali Coast on Foot – Dec 2025

The Kalalau Trail on the Napali Coast – this required taking a shuttle into Ha’ena State Park as parking is open to Hawaiian residents only. The December morning started out rainy but turned into a beautiful sunny day.

The Hanakapiai Beach with its crashing waves was our final two mile destination and we decided more water and time would be required to go the extra 2 miles to the falls. This was to be the dangerous part of the trail, but the first two miles were not so treacherous. But we saw a bit of the coast by trail and the hike in the lush jungle was incredible.

Waimea Canyon, May

Waimea Canyon came immediately after the 7 hour tour. The Canyon was only a few miles out from Port Allen and the prior day plan of hiking Waimea Canyon was foiled when a brush fire closed down access to the Visitor Center. Luckily we had stopped at a few overlooks to take in the incredible beauty before hitting the closure.

The lush green and red dirt-combo is so mesmerizing.

Napali and Waimea in one day was the last full day while on the western side of Kauai. Pegged as the Grand Canyon of Hawaii, the red-green color scheme with shadowing of the clouds and brightness of the sun make it spectacular.

But our Auto Guide Along we call him GG for short. made it quite clear that it is nowhere close to the size of the Grand Canyon.

Then came the fog rolling in as we were at the top of Koke State Park which was only a bit further up the road. No time for a hike here, we would need to get our shoes dirty with red clay some other day.

Spouting Horn

The Spouting Horn truly spouted with the rolling waves.

Nutzo butter sandwiches with pineapple as the water horn sounded.

This coastal area was beautiful.

Poipu Beach, December

Early on the first morning, we discovered Boris, a monk seal, who squiggled up to the Brennacke Beach.

Boris stayed there all day even as dusk was approaching, but was gone the next morning. Then there were all the turtles unaffected by all boogie boarders and body surfers that were swarming in the waters;

Dozens of turtles would gather on the beach in the evenings in December.

A crashing wave area for boogie boarding and body surfing right at then end of the road and hours were spent here on our family December 2025 trip.

Snorkeling at Poipu Beach Park was very protected and Mackie seemed to be a Fish Whisperer as they flocked to him. The conditions were not as clear nor were there as many varieties of fish as we experienced in Anini Beach in May, but the reef was shallow and protected and you could see many up close.

Lot’s of great places to eat in Poipu – Brennacke’s Beach Broiler, Kalapaki Joes and the RumFire Cafe right on the ocean which Debbie and I took advantage of during a downpour.

Barking Sands Beach Cottage

They were lovely and new and right on the ocean. There is a path that allows you to walk to Shenanigans, the lovely Navy bar and grill with the cheapest fare in town to go with the best sunsets.

Bit of confusion at the NEX where we shopped a cart load because the Pass and ID lady said we could make purchases there, but they refused us when we went to pay. Note to self, before loading up make sure it is ok with the person working the

Moloa’a beach

We were killing time before we could check in to our Wyndam. Moloa’a beach was recommended by our driving Guide-along, GG, as a very secluded beach where we were reminded about the kapu of not trespassing on people’s property and parking exactly where he told us. This was a very small lovely beach with crashing waves that would not have been so lovely in which to swim if it weren’t so rough.

Kilauea Lighthouse and Wildlife sanctuary

It was gated and closed for the season, opening at the end of May. GG highly recommended this stop so I guess we will do it when we come back in December. Another failed tourist stop to add in with Kilauea volcano and our near miss at Waimea Canyon, but we got to glimpse past the gate for a beautiful photo. No luck on the Lighthouse when we went back in December. Evidently it is not open on Sundays and you need to have reservations to enter.

Anini Beach, May

This is a lovely beach park on the northern part of Kauai near Princeville, whereas Poipu is on the southern part of the Island. Driving almost the whole way down Anini Beach, we found a luscious spot under the trees with an exceptionally beautiful rooster and his hens. The Snorkeling was not great the first time, but we would return another time and park near the beginning of the beach park, rather than a mile down the road.

There were so many chickens and cute chicks too.

This beginning side was best because we were in the midst of all the exciting windfoiling, under huge trees, and near a bathroom with rinse off capabilities.

Most importantly, snorkeling on the east of the beach park was better. I saw three turtles and many fish, including Gertrud’s favorite, Moorish Idols who I followed for quite some time.

I observed many pairs of fish that appeared to feed off the coral together and stay together.

The water was beautifully warm, and I was out of the section where the wild windfoils were zooming along. This reef was in front of a tree wall that jetted out to the ocean, and in front of some houses that were protected by hedges. I was out for over an hour enjoying all the ocean life and even an eel.

Before the Beach Park there was even a place where surfing seemed really good, and I saw lots of turtles.

Kuilau Ridge Trail Hike, May

And what is typical Kauai weather it rained and was sunny with huge, white puffy clouds and pouring rain in the distance. Luckily not on us, although we had a few showers here and there.

The greens of rolling Hawaiian hills are luscious for our 4 mile hike.

We had succeeded in the red mud shoe experience, slow and steady, but it wasn’t too bad at all.

Secret Falls Kayak and Hike Tour, May

We had to learn to embrace the mud as we hiked through the beautiful valleys of green, but this time wore sandals as wading through water was required.

The beautiful scenery with just the right amount personal ability stretching as we had to embrace mud, wade through knee deep water, up and down some rock area finally making it to the beautiful spot only accessible in this way. The 3 minute movie shows the journey.

Levi was such a special guide as he played Uke and sang as we hiked. He exuded positivity as he told stories of his life and was hoping to wrestle a pig for a luau – he also loved to cook. What a man as he carried dumb bells in his pack for an extra workout while we washed all our problems out in the waterfall. The giant conch to summon us was also in that pack with the first aid equipment that luckily we never had to use. The waterfall was so incredible and Gertrud and Lisa dipped in them.

As we met other tours along the way, it was obvious how special he was as he interacted with their guides. The tour did start and end with kayaking and there was more than 20 or 30 kayaks pulled up to shore where the get out spot was. We had a beautiful, feel good about life day.

Limahuli Gardens and Nature Preserve

These gardens are the beginning of the famous Nepali coast, which means cliffs, but they were in the distance not to fall off while visiting.

A lovely walk through streams and ponds that tower under the massive cliffs.

So many beautiful plants and flowers.

A bit further down the road is Haena State Park, and where the famous Kalallau Trail to the Nepali coast begins.

Lihue Mountain Tubing

This former sugar plantation now owned by AOL founder is a pristine acreage that he has allowed no development except for the tubing and zip lining adventures.

The water canals were carved out for the sugar plantation and one can float through these tunnels twirling around a bit as others shove or you push off from the tunnel sides. I would prefer the non-tunnel water canals myself, ferns and moss covered sides with the green in the terrain as the background. But besides the 20 minute float down the lazy river, most was in the tunnels. It turned out to be a rainy day, so canals would have not been so optimal anyway. Not that we weren’t wet, but with hard rain and no sun it may have gotten cold.

Kauai Multi-Use Trail

Waipouli Park in Kappa to Donkey Beach and who knows maybe more . At least we think so.. we saw the path at Donkey Beach, but All Trails says it ends before this in Paliku Point. Trying to keep close to the trail, we took a turn into a gated community which wasn’t gated at the time. All the entrances to the grand houses in this community were gated, but we just drove right in, a little bit apprehensive, but with the people in the car that are used to breaking rules, it was no big deal. We ended up leaving this gated community through a gate which of course opens when you want to get out. But this time, the gate coming in was closed, so we felt very devious. We drove outside and made it to Donkey Beach on the main highway, and we noticed that we saw a bike trail and it probably was the same one passing through the gated community, but that’s something to be investigated. It is supposed to be a 7 mile bike path and would definitely like to rent bikes next time.

Recommendations

Most optimal is to stay in two places because the traveling from where many things like Haena State Park, Hanalei Bay, and Anini Beach is at the end of the road at the northern side of the island and is only accessible from the east by roadway. The Napali Coast on the northwest side of the island is only accessible on long difficult hike or boat tour. That side of the island is generally rough in the winter. We had heard that Poipu is a good choice in December and there looks to be Poipu Cliffs and Mahaulepu Heritage Trail to which we never got. Some of the northern beach parks were closed due to high surf when we took the long drive up to Haena State Park where the road ends. We loved Anini Beach in the north in May and would have loved to visit Kilauea Lighthouse in this area.

Lihue where the airport is located on the east coast halfway between northern and southern sides of the island and has many overnighting options. It is convenient to the Secret Falls Tour and Fern Grotto along the Wailua River. Waimea Canyon entrance and the harbors for Napali Coast tours are located on the south western side of the island making Poipu a more convenient location. Also the McBryde & Allerton Gardens are located nearby. Driving is generally slow and getting to a tour on time requires planning. We did a boat trip to Fern Grotto 25 years ago, but the Fern Grotto in Prairie Creek National Park in California was superior, although our favorite musician said he plays music on the tour boat.

After scoring a 2 bedroom Wyndham condo for $832 for the week at the Armed Forces Vacation Club, AFVC, a few weeks prior, Debbie and I decided to change our return flights and Gertrud decided to join us in Kauai. This is a strategy: always check AFVC in the time you can cancel a previously made reservation. If you use Alaska Points you can change flights without penalty, but need to pay the going point rate. So if flexible this is a really good option for people who are not schedule driven,

Royal Sonesta, Marriott Resort

This is where we stayed for my 40th Birthday, The property was renamed Royal Sonesta and it has the incredible atrium garden and Koi pond. But now the beach front walk extends and there is surfing on one side of the beach and a Duke’s Restaurant. Perfect for refreshment after our killing time before we needed to take Gertrud to the airport. Pro Tip for Lihue airport: As I was waiting 4 hours to board my flight since Debbie needed to be there earlier, the info lady said you can get on the Royal Sonesta Marriott Shuttle and hang out there for a few hours and then just take the shuttle back. I ended up not doing that because I only discovered that 1 hour in and decided that wouldn’t be enough time. Even inside the airport there were some outside atrium benches making waiting pleasant. Jaz and Tony used this feature and checked their luggage – didn’t seem like they were too fussy checking if you had a reservation.

Kauai is an incredibly beautiful place – and so grateful to have visited twice in 2025.

Kauai, Hawaii(May and December)