We have been Vinny VanGoing in Colorado for the month of September  2025 enjoying only a fraction of the beauty and what is available to experience and see in the incredible state,  especially with the Aspens shimmering into the yellows and gold.  As we all travelled here in 2014, 2015 and 2022 I also included some of the attractions we saw at this time as well. Hope to return to enjoy more of the less well known areas next time. 

Rocky Mountain National Park

In 2014, we stopped at the Continental Divide in August as we were on our way to Fort Collins to take Jazmine to her Freshman Year at Colorado State – all her stuff and us in a Honda Fit ! Stepping out above the tree line, this seemingly beautiful day was freezing and snow gullies were still around as we explored quickly.

We would return to Rocky Mountain National Park in 2022 when we attended Beth and Addie’s Wedding in Lyons.   Here we would meet Justine’s wedding camp share friend, Alyss.  We didn’t have to deal with the timed entry since we had a campsite in the park at Aspen Glen Campground.  Luckily, we got into the popular Bear Lake Parking Area which has restrictions/passes and can be difficult. I have learned to do National Park checking because the more popular ones have some entry details/passes etc.

First stop at the incredibly clear Dream Lake where the trout came so close to the shore  that you could have scooped them up just like that. 

Julie took a cold plunge dive into the freezing water of Emerald Lake.  She has a habit of doing this craziness and also has a similar dive into a freezing lake in the Sierras. After drying off and warming up, she did it again receiving a clapping ovation from the crowd that had also made the hike to Emerald Lake. 

Lake Haiyaha was the next Lake on our trail and this one was the most green, I had ever seen a lake to be and required a bit of bouldering to get a clear view. 

Aspens reflecting on the lake, so peaceful.

The day was waning and we took the easy last little jaunt around Bear Lake for beautiful memory maker shots. 

Another night at the campground without a moose to be seen even though Alyssa said she has seen many in the area. Evidently it is a thing to see moose graze in a green park near Estis at certain times, but not this was the weekend

Hanging Lake Hike, near Glenwood Springs

This is a reservation required hike and two days prior only the 3, 4 and 5pm spots were available for $12 per person. (FYI: one of the reviews pointed out that Grizzley Creek Hike was just as beautiful but no cost or reservations required) In my mind a bit pricey, but it controlled the crowds and the bathroom facilities and water fill stations were excellent, not to mention the excellent condition of the rock stepped trail up through the canyon. I can only imagine the erosion would be really bad if they had not somehow constructed the flat square foot by 6-inch-high steps many being double wide up the canyon.   Would love to know how they build these steps. There was a particularly steep set up to the lake.  We were careful coming down because we had a downpour once we got to the lake. 

The Lake/waterfalls had an elaborate boardwalk all around it with nice bench seating. Luckily, I got in several photos/videos before the downpour came and we deployed our rain poncho which were still in the wraps but had the shiny insulation and John and I huddled under one together for the 15-minute downpour. 

The lake was 1.5 miles up 1000 feet with the last part having some nice steel handrails, and we had the sense of accomplishment upon reaching the gold pot of the gorgeous lake.   We eventually got out our rain jackets on for the return descent as it still was sputtering a bit and managed not to slip slide down the wet slicked rocks.  We hiked behind a delightful family of 6 with kids ranging from 10 to 20 years old and it was heartwarming to hear them interact with each other.

Gunnison Canyon

The Gunnison adventure started quite unexpectedly as we decided to take the scenic route to Montrose, and the hour-long trip turned to three hours.  A bit of the delay was due to 2 dozen cattle on the road, and some real cowboys and vehicles that rounded the herd down Route 92 and across the highway to their new grazing land.  Route 92 went past many wide-open ranches with large hills and then ended up following the Gunnison River Gorge that dropped 100’s of feet of sheer cliffs below.  This was the first time I peered over and felt a bit uneasy.

Pine Creek Trail in Curecanti National Forest would be a great trail as it goes along the Gunnison River with the towering cliffs above.  It is only 2¼ miles and elevation gain is 229 feet a next time event.  Finally, the Blue Mesa Dam provided a crossing point to the steep gorge so we could now continue to our destination of Montrose. 

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

Although many trees and bushes that line the top of this National Park were black from the fire that swept through a few months ago in July 2025, the “black” in this national park refers to  the walls of this canyon which are so deep and narrow that they lay shrouded in dark shadows most of the time.

The deepest part of the canyon is 2,722 feet at Warner Point  with the shortest rim to rim measurement being about half as it is deep.

The Gunnison River is way down there but still working.

The park consists of about a dozen overlooks into foreboding chasm. 

Many of the trails that traverse the top were closed from the fire, but otherwise the roads and pullout are among the best

Million Dollar Highway

This scenic drive from Ouray to Silverton is particularly beautiful and it includes a section called the Switzerland of America.  It is a relatively undeveloped roadway that closes down for snowy winter months. 

Not as nail biting as it was hyped up to be, and we saw plenty of over-length trailers traversing this highway.  We never made it to Durango as there were several hour closings on this stretch.

There is a tourist train that goes between Durango and Silverton, but after the summer it only leaves from Durango, so was not an option for us.  One can choose to go steam or diesel and a whole variety of classes.

Box Canyon, Ouray

The power of  water is on display here and a must see at this private tourist attraction in Ouray.  The power of water to carve through rocks for millions of years is an experience.

Well worth the entrance fee and not to be missed while visiting the area.

Maroon Bells

The Maroon Bells, a two rock mountain massive pyramid guard in charge of all those sleek aspens that are shimmering in the breeze with reflection off Maroon Lake. There are lots of other towering mountains that dominate the area and they are so up close.

The green is the most remarkable thing about the Maroon Bells area in comparison to the dry areas like Ouray and Crested Butte.  The trails are not littered with downed or dead trees like so many mountain hills are these days.  And the white bark of the aspens and the waving of their delicate leaves is such a treat when you are hiking. 

Our campsite at Silver Queen is surrounded by tall grass and aspens and lays right under a mountain that also is green except where the erosion has exposed the red rock.

And we even had a habitual visitor at our campsite.

Crater Lake Hike, Maroon Bells

The 3-mile roundtrip hike was perfect for us as we let those youngins carrying heavy backpacks go by. Crater Lake was not really too picture worthy as it was very low,   But the hike there was gorgeous.

It is possible to hike from Crested Butte to this Maroon Bells wilderness area. 

Sheep Crossing

Looking on the map, it is only about 40 miles as the crow flies from Crested Butte to Maroon Bells.   It took us 4 hours to drive though, as we went about 25 miles on dirt road over the Kebler Pass where this time, we had to stop for the herd of over 100 sheep that was crossing the road.  Luckily the cowboy and the dogs did their job and we too did our part because as he cleared the area in front of us, he motioned us to move forward until we could finally get through.  Luckily there was very little wash board and in general the road was fine and it cut down a bunch of miles. We went slow and I let most people pass us and there were plenty of safe sections to do this.  The drive was beautiful.

Maroon Creek Trail East #1982

This was a hike and horse trail.  Although we saw no one along this trail, there would have been several places it would have been quite difficult to let these large creatures pass.  It wasn’t too difficult to avoid the evidence that they had ridden here before, and the trail had a really nice variety of landscapes.  The Aspen forests, full bloom thistle fields, elephant leaves and low lying gtass, ridges of rock and dirt that ran along the fast-moving creek in lovely shade, and then even a small section of super large evergreens that were in good shape.  The lighting in the evening is best for John’s eye so we left around 4:30pm.  We need to remember that this is not Newfoundland and the sun sets at around 8pm and goes behind the mountains even sooner making it darker earlier.   We had wanted to make it to see the Bells again, but after seeing them in the distance, decided we had better turn back since we were burning daylight on this 6 mile, 900 ft elevation gain.   

Maroon Creek Trail West

We started at the main visitor’s area and went up to the adjoining Amphitheater and had the most stunning views of the Bells and adjoining landscape.  The brilliant green and maroon was vivid on this sunny day from the place a bit higher from the parking area – don’t miss it.  From there we found a sign that said “to hitching post” and thought this was the way to the Maroon West Trail since it was a horse and hike trail.  We didn’t come across any horses but two school groups.  The problem was we were hiking down, down,  down meaning we had to come up, up, up and we prefer the other way around.  In retrospect, it would be best to take a day of it and start at the Maroon West Creek Portal Area where you could hike a mile or so to the Amphitheater and then down to Maroon Scenic Lake which was easy. Taking the same trail back would be downhill then.

Maroon Bells on Two Wheels

We had the most incredible campsite surrounded by Aspens and even a path to the rushing Maroon Creek. With only 8 sites it is super quiet.  We were really settling in and have hooked up the solar panels and are keeping Vinny happily charged.   I decided to ride my bike up to the Maroon Bells Visitor area, which is certainly uphill, but I only had to get off and push for a half a dozen times because much of it is a 3-mile gradual incline from Silver Queen Camp Site.  Many E-Bikes and some serious road bikers whizzed by.  This road is closed off to traffic except for the shuttle buses and those very people who have secured a very limited parking pass, so it is very safe.  The Maroon Bells with the morning sun actually looked maroon in comparison when we did our evening hike in the area, and they are certainly not the only mountain of beauty in the scene.  We had hoped to see a moose at the recommendation of a NPS volunteer who said one had been visiting the lake to cool off around dusk.  No such luck.  We even went back another evening and did the delightful Scenic Loop.

Maroon Bells Camping Logistics

Maroon Bells Parking and Camping logistics must be considered.  First of all, Silver Queen is the only place to accept reservations and there are only about 4 sites where you can do this.  The rest are first come first serve.  The Maroon Bells parking wilderness area has very limited spaces and one must reserve and most of the daytime ones for weeks ahead are gone. There are four different varieties of Parking Passes. 1) Half Day Morning (must arrive at 8am and leave by 4:30 pm.  2)Half Day Evening (must arrive by 5pm and leave by midnight)   3) All day must arrive by 8am and leave by midnight)  4) several day passes for hikers.  Otherwise, there are buses that run every half hour or so from the Vail Area again requiring reservation and are surprisingly full.  That being said, the parking reservation with the Senior lifetime pass is only $2.65 otherwise it is $10 so relatively cheap.  If you have a camp site you do not need one of these parking reservations, so we are no longer bound by time that one can drive in and out.  In fact, they say they don’t advertise this because sometimes people will buy a campsite if parking is not available. But all the sites are booked anyway, but if they get here at 11am when they sell the first come first serve sites, then it may be possible.  There is no RV park in the area as far as I could see, although there are several campgrounds again that seem very small and limited access. 

I found two different spots at this tiny 8 campsite Silver Queen using Camp Scanner several weeks ago.  The vault toilets at the campsite and trailhead parking areas are very clean and unscented.  Shortly before 11am after our overnight, we headed several miles down to the gate and was able to secure a First Come First Serve site for 3 Days.  Well, I thought that the Amphitheater Campground in Ouray was the most beautiful ever, but this is ditto, with private aspen filled sites.  The positives, when prepared, far out weigh the negatives.  There is no drinking water, not even at the main visitor’s area where the bus drops off.  Surely, they are making a killing selling water bottles on the bus? There is no cell service, no WIFI, not even if you go to the kiosk. They don’t give out any info paper when you drive here, just take a photo of the map.  I would have liked to be a bit more prepared with All Trails downloaded to my phone.  Vail is only about 10 miles down the road, so surely in this Gucci ski town they have erected plenty of towers, so we will definitely check that out. After all there is an Eagles Game on Thursday night, and generally we don’t miss these.  There is also a John Denver Garden here too.

Royal Cannon Gorge Train Ride

Wow. What a breathtaking experience and we were even able to start the Octoberfest season with a special add on of a Bison Bratwurst Meal and an Oktoberfest Beer!

We had a beautiful day to see this incredible Royal Gorge and pass under the Suspension Bridge that we never got to cross on foot or on gondola the day prior.

It is incredible how they built this railroad through the rock and also it was the first water system carrying water to the parts of Colorado.  One can see the remnants of the broken-down pipe system along the river.

We got seating in one of the dome cars so the field of view upward was really incredible as well.  I spotted Big Horn sheep twice on the ride.   There were raft goers who traversed the river as we chugged by.  It was nice to eat and cool down first in our dome car and then go outside to the open-air car where we stopped under the suspension bridge for the view upward.

There is a private tourist attraction above the Gorge  that allows you to walk across this huge suspension bridge or take a gondola.  Unfortunately, the wind kicked up closing the gondola and the $39 entrance fee did not seem worth it.  I guess you can do zip lining as well for an extra fee if you are the daredevil type.  All is available for das Geld, but after taking the train was enough for us.

Great Sand Dunes National Park

Dune climbing is so exhilarating when you start out, but quickly you feel some different leg muscles that are under utilized for typical hiking adventures, and it was pretty windy in places on top.   I was able to find paths that were a bit more solid and found myself walking atop of a narrow sculpted rise of the dune. 

The vivid yellow aspens in September make the experience even more beautiful. 

The Dunes originate from the Sangre de Cristo and San Juan Mountains.  This eroded sediment and sand were deposited in San Luis Valley by rivers that flowed from these mountains and formed Lake Alamosa some ½ million years ago.  It eventually dried and sand and sediments were exposed to prevailing winds that pushed up against a bend in  Sangre de Cristo Mountains creating the dunes. 

Evidently the dunes are still growing because each spring the snow melt creates streams around the base of the dune fields which dry out in the summer and the winds pile them atop of existing dunes. 

Not only are the dunes something to climb and sled down, but they also provide a sandy flowing stream in the spring perfect for frolicking bodies that don’t mind a bit of sand in all those bodily crevices.  Leaving the park I drove up to a vantage point away an up from the dunes where the colors were shimmering.

Pikes Peak

At over 11,000 feet, Pikes Peak distinguishes itself from so many of the other 14ers in the Rockies because it stands by itself.   It inspired Kathrine Lee Bates to write the poem America the Beautiful which became an iconic American song.   The American Highway which started as a donkey path to the top is not only a tourist attraction, but also hosts a famous annual car race along its many treacherous hairpin turns.

The race is only to the top and does not include the descent.  There is a cog-rail train that also brings tourists up to the visitor’s center at the top of this incredible 360 view or drive it for a fee. We were lucky to be on a tour so didn’t have to worry about the hairpin turns.    Fresh donuts have been a part of the heritage for many years and are still available at the visitor center at the top. 

There are several trails round the top as well as to the bottom if one is so inclined.

A temperature brake check halfway down is mandatory and motor vehicles are warned they must have ability to operate in low gears before being allowed to travel the American Highway.  We had an incredible clear day and could barely spy the skyscrapers in Denver, but the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs was quite evident.

Garden of the Gods

From Pikes Peak, we could see these distinctive red sandstone that is part of many areas in the Colorado landscape. This park is a National Natural Landmark.

The land was donated by the children of a late Charles Elliot Perkins who was a railroad man in the 1870’s with the stipulation that it must always remain free to the public.  It is one of the main attractions in Colorado Springs and the state.

Florissant Fossil National Monument

This is one of the premier fossil beds in the world and would be even more extensive if tourists back in the day had not taken so many. Trains would bring tourists who would chip away and take home fossils before it became a national park and conservation efforts forbid collection.  Luckily Charlotte Hill,  one of the original homesteaded in the area, collected a preserved one of the largest collections of exquisite fossils with now more than 1800 species being collected.   Many made their way back to the site once it was protected as a National Monument in 1969.  In particular, there are several very large red wood forest fossilized tree trunks that proves that this was a much different environment than today. 

The volcano that exploded some 35 million years ago sent these trees tumbling.  More volcanos sent a huge stream of ash, killing the great trees.  More layers of ash and clay layers piled up trapping all tho use creatures making them into fossils.  At one time there were many large petrified logs and stumps, but they were taken by enthusiasts as even the railroad provided a stop for personal collection.  Now there ae only  several huge stumps that were just too big to be removed, except for Walt Disney who bought on and arranged for transport to Frontier Land.

We found some giant boulders on our hike through the area.

Thomas Dambo Troll Hunting

It’s official we are Troll Hunters.  After being introduced to Rita the Rock Planter sculpture  in Cripple Creek, we couldn’t help ourselves but drive to Breckenridge to see Isak Heartstone, the only other one in the area. 

Thomas Dambo has been busy since 2014 creating some 150 giant whimsical sculptures, and placing them all over the world mostly in forests, parks and botanical gardens.  We have been to Breckenridge several other times in combination with visits to Colorado to visit our daughter who attended Colorado State, and the 2 hour detour in pursuit of our new Troll calling was welcomed an the aspens were really popping in Breckenridge.

But this day in the same park was another exhibit by Swiss Italian Artist, Joe Scolari, who crafted an interactive experiences of playful marble runs twisting and cascading between trees, rocks and other natural elements found on the forest floor.  This required a 2 mile hike through the Illinois Creek and Little Mountain Trails which provided a stunning view of the Aspens at this 10,000 feet. 

Breckenridge is a bustling ski town and appears to have an interest in the arts as the BIFA (Breckenridge International Festival of the Arts) is active.  We remember the village stage had music/market in the area from our previous summer visit. Breckenridge, like most of the more well known ski towns, is a bit upscale for our liking.

Twin Lakes

Oh what a difference two weeks make. We had passed the area on the way and it was not necessarily appealing, but when the Aspens are ablaze on the surrounding mountains with reflection in the still morning lake, it is a whole different story.

 We had tried to camp a bit up a mountain at Lakeview Campground but the gate was closed and locked.  Arrived at Dexter Point in heavy dusk conditions, but several other rigs were in the very flat camping area.  The morning arrived with sun and a beautiful view of Twin Lakes with aspen reflections.

Aspen Peeping/Hail/Snow/Sun

Route 24 into Twin Lakes is where the aspens start shimmering their yellow.  It continued through Leadville all the way through Red Cliff, Minturn, Vail and Frisco.  The hills are aglow and the Red Cliff Area has its own unique deeply carved gorge where you can turn off and drive under the Red Cliff Bridge along a windy road of interesting vacation type houses.

Finally an abandoned mine out-cropping where the abandoned railroad used to transport the riches of this ghost town. 

When I drove through Minturn in 2022, I was delighted with this sweet small town.  In 2025 it was cloudy and drizzly on this Monday afternoon and we explored the Bike Park with nice tiny amphitheater seating.  The trail system goes all the way to Vail and is something to be explored because Minturn is adorable, but no camping here and lots of signs that say so.  

2025 Minturn, was a rainy afternoon and we even had hail collect on our windshield wipers as we left Minturn, so we decided to not venture too far and go to what will be one of our top three Colorado Towns, Frisco. 

As we left Frisco deciding to take the scenic Route 6 through the Loveland Pass, light snow was coming down, and as we drove further, there was accumulation on the evergreen trees 23^rd of  September.  Luckily the snow was melting on the roadway.

John’s eye appointment in Philly required us to be heading in the direction of Denver on the rainy day.  There were several small towns sandwiched between mountains on I-70 and we stopped at this really cute little run down town, Silver Plume. It had a hotel that looked like it had been converted to an Air B N B and a mix of freshly painted modest homes next to ones that were falling down.    People lived right under the rock cliffs on their semi-dirt asphalt pot-holed roads, but the aspens against the cliffs were stunning. 

There appeared to be a train ride from the other side of town.  The rain was to be all day, so we did some coffee shopping hours in Idaho Falls at the Frothy Cup which had speedy internet and a delightful small town vibe.

What a difference a sunny day makes !  We had spent the night at the Westminster Elks Lodge outside of Denver since John was to fly back to Philly,  and it rained and rained all night.

Since the next day was bright and clear, I decided to go back to Loveland pass and see the glistening white peaks that were covered all around. What a beautiful show on this 24^th day in September where the aspens and snow were out in force.

The Panorama trail near  Buffalo Pass near Steamboat Springs had beautiful colors as well. 

There were many trails in the area for both hiking and biking .

Driving along the  Curecanti National Forest during sunset was amazing.

Also daybreak along the way was equally as stunning.

Finally, I was able to stop safely for a stream surrounded in yellow.

The end of September is certainly the time to visit Colorado. It gets a bit cold at night in the 40’s, but warms up to T-shirt weather in the afternoon.    

Dillon Reservoir

We had been here for a concert at the Dillon Amphitheater in 2015 when we visited Jazmine and went to the Rocky Grass Music Festival. There was a Classic Rock band and the evening was beautiful as we sat on the tiered concrete bordered grass levels.  Maybe if it had rained my impression would be different, but this a really nice venue and certainly when thinking about towns to visit, nearby Frisco is on the list.  But on this sunny day 2025, after two days overcast and rain, the reservoir seemed even more beautiful on this Wednesday afternoon.

The bike path around the reservoir was calling with a perfect T-Shirt weather day surrounded by white peaks and aspens.  The reservoir bike paths here are quite extensive and one can even ride to the Heaton Bay Campground where we overnighted after coming down off the Loveland Pass.  Heaton Bay was severely low and very unappealing when I found it from our campground. There seems to be several places where one can get to the water, but swimming is not allowed although in 2021 they have allowed wading (feet on the ground). There was a marina full of sailboats and motor boats, and stand-up paddle is allowed but it is not recommended to fall into this freezing alpine body of water.  I can imagine this place is hopping in the summer, but Wednesday at the end of September was beautiful especially for biking.

Colorado National Monument

In September 2022, I stopped here for an hour drive by.  It was quite beautiful and I later heard on the news that someone had driven over a cliff later that day.  I remember it being many drop offs and tight turns. Beautiful Colorado Red Rocks were everywhere.  

Red Rocks Amphitheater

We stopped here for the Beatles 60^th 1964 anniversary concert that has happened on this date for the last 40 years at the Red Rock Amphitheater.  The venue was the main reason, but singing Beatles songs all night long was certainly our idea of a good time.  We found a small parking area alongside the road just before the tunnel that led up to the venue and the huge parking lots.  It was perfect because at the 3 o’clock hour, it was hot and this spot was totally shaded and under the cliffs of some of that calming red rock.  Opening up the van left enough breeze for a nice nap and when we awoke there was an elaborate white table cloth tailgate party right off of our rear.   The cyber truck had pulled in next to us and this setup was facilitated with flowers, appetizers, wine and sit-down dinner for about 8 people.  They even had a classical guitarist set up near the table. Down further on this 15-spot parking area, there were other tailgates going on and people said they always come early and get this spot for this reason.  There are several parking areas within the Red Rocks compound and there was plenty of tailgating going on.  They seem to close certain parking areas that are close by, before filling capacity and then there is a hike up to the venue from some of the lower parking areas.  The adjoining parking lot to the venue had many tailgaters and empty spaces.  Doors opened at 7pm so it had started to cool for these parking lot tailgaters.  We were happy to have our spot under the eaves of the red rock.

The concert was quite enjoyable, not painfully loud but allowed us to sing all our favorite Beatles songs on the cement bleacher style seating (butt padding would be advantageous here).  We had reserved seats, but were so far back that the big screen was really the source of out visuals for this incredibly beautiful perfect temperature breeze blowing evening at our first Red Rocks Concert.  The museum had water refill and a really cool timeline listing of all the performers who played there beginning in the early 1900’s.  Food and beverage were available at the venue.  We had hoped to walk around the venue but the trail had been closed.   I really prefer smaller venues where you can get up and see the performers.  Unfortunately, “Paul McCartney” seemed to have quite a hoarse voice and have to say that vocals from the look alike concert in Vegas was better, but all in all a great evening.  I guess this band from England had been doing this anniversary concert for 20 years.

We had hoped to sleep in our parking spot because they had said that you could leave your parked car until 10am the next morning, but this did not include with occupants and we got busted by the park ranger around midnight.  She said that we should try the Park and Ride lot down the hill because they don’t usually enforce the No Overnight camping policy there.  We had a peaceful night there, but I just never sleep too well in those types of situations.

Arkansas River

There are so many places to raft or kayak along the Arkansas River which starts near Leadville works its way through the states of Colorado, Kansas, Oklahoma and Arkansas before emptying into the Mississippi River.  The rocky sections in Colorado make it quite a beautiful place to explore as some places like Royal Gorge are so dramatic.

Just south of Railroad Bridge Campground there was a section that had quite the extensive tunnel for a dirt road.  As we drove on Route 50 there were many fly fisherman and rafters on the river in very beautiful settings, the negative being that the two lane highway was close by for a less than peaceful setting.  Salida was one of our favorite mountain towns that had a Riverwalk and some interesting wave making structures for people to ride a single wave on the River – always some new thrill seeker phenomenon. 

There is the South Arkansas River too, and we enjoyed our own personal waterfall the the Riverside RV Park in Salida.

Colorado is a diverse scenic play land  with everything except the Ocean!!

Our last days in this incredibly beautiful province were upon us, and we are backtracking a bit to catch all the things we had missed during the last 6 weeks before heading to Gander for “Come From Away” and the ferry back to Cape Breton, those both being firm dates.  These are somewhat in the order of my favorites first rather than a timeline.  We have been here for almost two months and have experienced so much of Newfoundland. 

Gander

I had already watched the “Come From Away” recording of the musical about the 9/11 tragedy when so many jets were forced to land here.  Gander had the runways because before the days of big jets, it had been a refueling spot for crossing the Atlantic. The story is such a mixture of sad, funny, heartwarming, inspiring and highlights the genuine kindness of the Newfoundland people.  It is without a doubt my favorite musical ever.  

The Warm Embrace Project  happened when the musical was to come to Gander for the first time  in 2023.  Since  crocheted squares made into blankets are quintessential in Newfoundland culture,  it was decided to ask for squares from anyone who had been touched by the event.  They received over 2200 squares and these have become the backdrop to the Gander stage as well as the theater walls. 

Gander Aviation Museum

This excellent museum also had everything from retired aircraft to a piece of the World Trade Center. 

Gander had been a hub that allowed refueling for commercial, leisure, and military aircraft  from North America to Europe during the early years before the jet era.  For this reason there is much aviation history on display here. 

Evidently there is a museum in the International airport that was also recommended.  The infrastructure made it optimal for the military and we also went to the Memorial of a tragic crash in 1985 that killed over 200 people, mostly military,

Chance Cove Hike

As we rode back and left the Newfoundland East Coastline, we just couldn’t imagine anything getting better than Cobblers Path and the whales.  After leaving St John’s, we had already stopped in Brigus, Cupids, the Newfoundland Distillery and had burgers at the Baccalieu Brewery.  Arriving at dusk, we found a great overnight right at the Trail Parking area. There were no water features in sight, just up a large set of steps into a hill. The next morning a whole different story as we climbed up those steps. 

The path opened to a gravel beach as we went but then we came into Chance Cove.

The colors of the water were between emerald and aqua and everywhere in between

Another surprise tucked away as we made our way West. 

We finally have seen Capelin as they were the ones that did not survive the Capelin Roll and lay floating near the shore. Yuck. 

Oceanview RV Park, Leading Tickle

This place had come highly recommended to us as a most beautiful place to camp and we had heard to call ahead.  

And, yes, it is, even though we did not get one of the beachfront spots. We arrived as the sun was setting behind a thick cloud patch, so there was not too much to this one.  But the peaceful cove with lapping water, and rock island towers is just what we needed. 

A day of rest after so many back-to-back hikes,  and they have a laundromat too.  As I sat on the darkening beach finishing a phone call, a lady came down across the rock piles and invited us to join their campfire.  She must have felt sorry for me as I sat in the darkness on the beach and she was just above with fire going. 

The campground had two beaches and a hiking trail to a platform to view the whole area.  There were only about 25 campsites and the place was delightfully small  with the lovely manager telling us all about what to do in her darling Irish accent.  Day 2 was very windy so we didn’t even get to the platform.  I was thinking that there were so many place with rocks that made crashing and that was a tickle,  but google says  it’s a small opening to the sea. I was informed  that there are two tickles in Leading Tickle.  

We met a nice couple from Vermont Jeanie and husband who travelled in a 25-year old Pleasureway Van.  They had asked the Campground host if there was any place that sold fresh cod, and in the next hour someone came driving up to their campsite and handed them a pound of cod, no charge.  Our camp neighbors also gave us frozen cod that her brother had caught.  Such hospitable, lovely people abound in Newfoundland.  And look at this cute little cod caribou 

Cape Saint George 

This was such an unplanned gem, trying to figure out what to do in our two days as we travel from Corner Brook to Port aux Basque Marine Terminal.  Secret Cove Brewery was on our radar after our Cedar Coves Hike, but they had a hard close at 5pm and we arrived at 455pm.  So, we just carried on down the road for another 40 minutes and across the causeway until we could go no further and found this incredible boondocking spot, with pit toilets, water, and trash.   Luckily it wasn’t too windy and we opened up to the ocean.  

A 5-mile hike in the morning where we were on our way before 10 am, that has never been done. What an incredible cliff walk.

The coast was incredible and had a variety of hiking terrains.  

It looked as if an ATV path had paralleled the hiking (All Trails) path.  Then there would be an occasional  sign pointing back to the hiking only section as we walked.  

About ¼ mile from the end, we were walking down the ATV path when All Trails alerted us that we were off.  When we back tracked, we found a small entrance back into the woods so we took it.  This was a quite steep descent and overgrown with fallen trees blocking the path.  We had decided to take the ATV Path back up this final section for this reason, and would recommend going down as well, or make sure to have poles and boots for the end of this All Trials hike section.  

Both trails had access to a small peek through the trees to the massive vertical slab of rock where a seabird cacophony was in full swing.   Unfortunately, it was pretty far for I-phone photos.  

Rose Blanche Lighthouse Museum / Hike

This was supposed to be a day of killing time until the 11:45 pm  Port aux Basque Ferry back to the mainland and here we saw yet another terrain of Newfoundland that is unique to the area and that we had not experienced.  Rose Blanche means white rock in French. 

Coastal marsh grass grows around the boulders and hills and is scattered with lovely flowers.   

The lighthouse was a house that looked comfortable with immediate access to the fresnel light. 

Many room displays included antiques of the time and some boat models. Very well done. 

There was an enclave of cottages as well as an Air B and B right on the property.  There was even a stage where they said there were concerts sometimes and a snack bar. 

It looked like it was springing to life and lots of teenagers were  busy applying fresh paint and a lovely gift shop too. I loved that feeling of this place.   There was an option to park for the night and included restrooms and covered little eating areas if it rained for $25.  Most importantly there was Wi-Fi because there was No cell coverage, in most of this entire area driving from Port aux Basque eastward along the coast. They just got electricity and a road in 1963. 

The cool ocean breeze made it perfect to hike around and the paths were well maintained and displayed placards for many different flowers that one passed. 

Barachois Falls

The intrigue of this area is bright green low shrubbery that grows over the boulders and hills and there is a multitude of small and large ponds that dot the landscape.  

The main road east is narrow and not so safe for parking, so this Barachois Falls parking area was the first perfect place to get out and see the terrain.  And bonus was a rushing cascading waterfall. The falls were yellow from the tannin, but it was lovely to be able to get right to the falls. 

It was a short 1 mile short super easy hike with boardwalks and benches.  This was right on the way to Rose Blanche Lighthouse and there were so many lilly covered ponds on the way.

Harvey Trail, Isle aux Morts

We still had a bit of time to kill before the ferry and decided to add on an easy 2 mile final coastal hike.  A bit more up and down, but this lovely loop had so many cool flowers.

I named this one the ghost fluff flower, and there were a variety of fluffs and sizes. 

Then look at the dark gray pine cones on this low growing coastal pine.   We had seen a lot of low growing Christmas tree shrubbery on Cape St George,  but not with those cones. 

The Harvey Trail was named Ann and George  Harvey and their Newfoundland dog, Hairy Man who was legendary for rescuing people from two shipwrecks in the 1800’s.  As these dogs can weigh up to 160 pounds and have webbed feet for swimming, there are many stories of them rescuing and providing aid to their masters.

Many colorful chairs and gazebos dotted this leisurely 2 mile loop.  The parking area was big and there were “No Parking” signs were not to be seen.  This would be a good place to overnight before the ferry as it is close, but peaceful and allows for a bit of walking before the crossing.  

The sky had started to sputter and it was time to say good-bye to Newfoundland and head to the ferry.  

Pilley’s Island / Roberts Arm

We had decided to drive to one of those many arms that stick out on the Newfoundland coast, and try Bumblebee Bight Brewery on Pilley’s Island.  This town looked very fresh and this up-scale restaurant brewery pub was popular because most people had reservations, not us.  We just had our first really good porter there and delicious smoked fish dip and brussels sprouts as we sat at the small bar and interacted with the friendly staff as they poured beer.  Bubble Bee Bight was a harvest host and would definitely stay in this area next time.  As this was pretty far up the arm, with our overnight RV spot right across the water in the next arm, we had hoped for a ferry like they had at Cape Breton that just allowed you to go directly across, saving at least an hour of driving. But there was none and we arrived right before the dusk was setting in.

Cedar Cove

Driving from Corner Brook was beautiful and reminded us very much like the Pocono Mountains.  We drove and drove, to Lark Cove and parked.  As we started up the trail, people told us to take the ATV trail because it was really muddy on the hiking trail.  They were very insistent so we took their advice, so not so picturesque except at the end. 

A few Red Coast Guard trucks passed us on this gravel one lane path, and at the end of the hike we found the incident command post for a Swiss container ship that had run aground several months ago.  This container ship became aground in this cove after losing power in a storm.  All fuels and potentially polluting fluids were in the process of being removed as well as shipping containers, luckily all crew was rescued.  They were still in the process of deciding if after unloading, it could be dragged back to sea or cut up and removed. 

Talking with the Coast Guard was quite interesting for what we thought was to be a leisurely hike.  

Then John spotted this owl on a rock on the way down and that made our nature loving selves complete.  Evidently, they put this gravel road in specifically for the cleanup of the container ship, hope her home wasn’t destroyed as the gravel road was quite new.  

Brigus

A quaint vibrant fishing town with old historic buildings.   

It had a cool tunnel to the harbor because some founding father wanted a quick way to his boat. So after much blasting and slow hard pick-axing labor, they have a tunnel which now has lots of graffiti.  

The old Vindicator Press building was now a really cool breakfast lunch café, and as recommended by of Topsail Pastor with an adjoining community garden that looked well organized. 

We had an excellent meal after starving ourselves all the way from St. John’s.  Evidently, they have quite the Blueberry fest at the end of Summer. Our St John’s friends have told us that the wild blueberries are especially delicious and grow all over the place. 

Cupids

This is the oldest colony on Newfoundland dating back to August 1610 when the English arrived at Cupers Cove in Conception Bay.  The settlers also tried to establish fur trading with the fist nation, Beothuk.  The Cupids Legacy Center is a first-rate museum and I learned more about Cod Fishing.  The cod were more plentiful in Labrador so at first men would just leave for the summer to fish.  Then it became a thing for families to have a building in Labrador and the whole family would sail on schooners up there in the summer.  They had movie clips from the early 50’s which told about summer family life in Labrador.  The men would catch twice a day and the whole family would be involved drying them. But then the cod became scarce there too, and like all of Newfoundland was banned in 1992. 

Alexander Murray Trail

We had become accustomed to hiking on cliff edges and looking down a dramatic rugged coast and emerald water.  There was none of this at the scenic part of this loop trail including 2,200 steps; 

the elves had been very busy here with this almost 6-mile, 1200 feet elevation trail. Yes, there was a nice view of the surrounding waters and green mountains, but it was all from quite a distance and even a bit hazy.

 It was also quite hot and we got extreme heat warnings on our phones. But we are desert people, so besides being a bit humid we were fine.  If we had seen a moose in one of those distant green hills maybe we would have felt more satisfied.  It was almost a bit too processed for hiking and then there was probably more than a mile of walking through bushes although they were flowering pretty pink, but after a while a bit monotonous.   Coastal Newfoundland hiking has made us spoiled.  It was satisfying to look up at the mountain that we had accomplished, but that is what we have in our country. 

So this is the first hike with which I felt a bit ho hum. It was a bit out of the way, especially since the highway takes you way south to Gander and Grand Falls-Windsor.  And then back up one of those many coastal peninsulas, thankfully it was not at the end.   The parking for the trail was across the street on the highway and there was a gift shop right near the trail head and looked like a private residence attached to it.  We stopped in at the Roy’s Pub just next store and got to chat with Terry, a local guy which is always so refreshing. He said that right up the road there is a place called Rattling Brook which would also be a good place to overnight park.   We have no cell service here, but the Pub had a Wi-Fi.  Behind the pub there was a big gravel parking lot and a covered picnic area – all very new with a sign that just said sponsored by the Town of Kings Point, and I can even get the Wi-Fi from the pub as I type at the picnic table.

Easting/Drinking

Newfoundland Distillery, Clarks Beach

This was a classy place right on the water’s edge with  Jared shaking up excellent cocktails.  John had just found out that his eye pressure was still low and was a bit blue about this news. Jared shook several espresso martinis which he muddled with a hot pepper, similar to cayenne pepper, no annoying seeds here.  He then suggested using spiced rum which was a little twist and John was feeling better in no time. Luckily I was the driver!  

Harbor Grounds, Corn Brook

Corner Brook was a good stopping spot on the journey west to the ferry. The forecast was rain, and we were waiting it out.  This is one of the spend all afternoon sucking up their Wi-Fi to get my photos and backups on the web and also posting my blog.  Much of rural Newfoundland which is away from the ½ dozen big cities has very limited cell coverage and there is even quite a bit of 3G which means phone calling for the most part. Many times pubs and restaurants have poor Wi-FI, so it is a bit challenging in these areas.  Corner Brook is one of those cities that actually had some 5G.  They didn’t seem to mind and as we looked over the harbor where a big cruise ship had been diverted here because of the bad weather in Labrador.  The homemade soups and savory bacon and cheese biscuit was excellent, not to mention their coffee as well. Perfect way to spend a rainy morning into the afternoon.  

Boomstick Inn and Brewery

Well we can’t go to Corner Brook without visiting our favorite Boomstick Brewery, we needed a place to overnight and the back parking lot we knew to be perfect for Vinny.  We met our waitress from our first days on the province, and this time we got acquainted with the another bartender.  Well he had yet another way of adding heat to John’s Espresso Martini.  He had a special bottle of tequila that had cayenne peppers at the bottom.  So now this martini, maybe it’s not a martini any more, was made with tequila. It left the heat a bit in your chest rather than at your mouth.  

Rivers Edge Grill and Salmon Interpretation Center

Left Gander trying to find a place for breakfast, no luck.  We had camped in the Elks Parking lot after meeting a member who was running the bar at Come From Away.  He said we were welcome to stay in Lodge parking.  The town of Gander seems to have few restaurants that caught our eye.   Rosie Bakery was closed on Sunday so we carried onto Grand Falls Windsor where we not only had a delightful breakfast on the deck,  but also adjoining was a salmon interpretive center where you could see salmon going through the fish ladder and learn about the life of a salmon.

Deer Lake Strawberry Festival

The traverse to the ferry allowed us to stop here at the final fest day on a Sunday. They had two evening bands scheduled, one of which had been recommended to us.  We found a great overnight spot in a parking lot that was full of festival goers and undoubtedly would empty out.  

The festival was like a big carnival, but had a stage and beer tent in the back, not quite our cup of tea.  We decided to go to the Beach Restaurant which was right on Deer Lake, but had to cross a busy road. Finally found our way, discovering a nice path on the way back, but still had to hurdle the metal highway fence back to the main street area of town. The place needs a bit of city planning to make it walking friendly.    I did find a chocolate covered strawberry at the fest, but that is about  for the “strawberry” designation of the fest on this last evening.  We met a very nice group of people, but besides the last band, it was not our thing even though the fest had been going on for years.  John did however do his first axe throwing at this carnival. 

Deer Lake is a convenient stopping place, and on our first days had really good ice cream. We had also stopped at Peter’s Pizza here as we went to Gros Morne from Twillingate and it was good and convenient with Wi-Fi.

Well this concludes our Newfoundland two month Vinny VanGo Adventures. 

BTW We have come to understand that the term Newfie is considered especially by the mature generation to be derogatory, whereas I only mean it in an endearing and admiring way,  I have asked many people now and it seems like younger generation does not feel quite that way.  It seems like from the times when Newfoundland Labrador joined Canada in 1949, and was no longer a self-governing dominion within the British Empire, my perception was that they were looked down upon like newcomers have been in many cultures.  They were called Newfies. I wonder if the Kiwis in New Zealand have a similar opposition in meaning?

Westward to the Ferry

Gander

Gander Aviation Museum

Chance Cove Hike

Oceanview RV Park, Leading Tickle

Cape Saint George

Rose Blanche Lighthouse Museum / Hike

Barachois Falls

Harvey Trail, Isle aux Morts

Pilley’s Island / Roberts Arm

Cedar Cove

Brigus

Cupids

Alexander Murray Trail

Easting/Drinking

Newfoundland Distillery, Clarks Beach

Harbor Grounds, Corn Brook

Boomstick Inn and Brewery

Rivers Edge Grill and Salmon Interpretation Center

Deer Lake Strawberry Festival

Quidi Vidi

The most picturesque Harbor town, and I got the reflection – no wind so atypical, but it happens. 

Quidi Vidi Lake Loop provided the easy 3-mile thirst build-up for the Quidi Vidi Brewery.  We had boondocked for an entire week when we arrived at Quidi Vidi ready to take on the Brewery.  It was under construction so it was a bit awkward really.  I had a cherry milkshake sour which was pretty good, no stouts or porters to be found.  We needed a nap after all that typical bar fried food and thought we would return later.  It rained quite steadily that night and we decided not to venture out at all since we were a bit underwhelmed with the beer selection, although servers were super nice and let us move upstairs where the Wi-Fi at least was connectible.

Parking is extremely tight in the area and we lucked out and found the perfect spot to begin our Canada Day Celebrations and decided to stay for two nights.

It was right next to the Food Truck / Beer Garden area that again would be perfect for the thirst-quenching Signal Hill Hike we had planned for that morning.

The best part of Quidi Vidi was the people we met in the Beer Tent after our hike.

Briana and her two girlfriends who were friends since grade school and musically connected to small St John’s music bars.  Briana told me about the Capelin Roll at Norman Cove which she would text me about upon getting info. John convinced one of them to get an Eagle Face paint to match his own that he had to get on this festive day of celebration in the beer garden area as we listened to two young musicians play acoustically with excellent vocals.

Terry and Sarah, a young couple in the hospitality industry, were going to switch careers to accounting and nursing.  We connected over Mallory Johnson, a musician who we saw at Stanfest, and I had seen a poster that she, along with another musical name, the Cormiers, were playing at a church in Topsail.  She said they live right by it, so timing works out where we may see them again since I want to go to this concert.

Brittany and Steph, who got called out as we stood in the Burger line because they had brought their beers outside the fenced beer garden area.  We ended up finding a table together, as John in his typical manner enquired about their tattoos.  Ended up chatting quite a while and as Brittany is working with troubled teens in the mental health field, the subject is always quite compelling and we got another round of beers as we got acquainted.  And Steph owns a donut business in town. 

The food trucks sold out of all their food, and we decided a quick lay down before the Celtic Connections Concert that was scheduled in the Gazebo for Canada Day Night on Quidi Vidi Lake. It was such a beautifully still evening, a Newfoundland rarity, and we just lay down on the grass and listened – so relaxing.  Another mile added our wanderings for the day.   

In this most picturesque harbor was an eclectic shack where Skipper Ring’s Da Stage 27 would take you cod fishing or touring from his dock.  His card say Quidi Vidi Storytelling and Walking Tours too (709) 730-7943.   Skipper was not in the morning when I stopped, but talked to a few and heard all about Skipper’s breaking the rowing record in 1985 that was there for 80 years.  Seems like it would be fun to get in touch and do a walking tour – he also is quite a musician too and one could buy a CD.   

St John’s

This is the biggest city in NL and it is known to have great music in the pubs and a municipal campground.   The weather was to be rainy and we were on our 10 day record for boondocking and no showers.  It was time. Full Hook-ups in the Wi-Fi Loop.  They even have really good 5G which we have not found anywhere else in Newfoundland. The Wi-Fi looks to be throttled because it is slower than our Hotspot now, and I have a lot of blogging to catch up on.

There are lots of walking trails, but the connections between them can be difficult.  I found this as a resource.  Seems like all over St. John there is really good 5G cell service. Trails – City of St Johns. 

Cape Spear Lighthouse

Lots of whale action at the cliffs below the lighthouse, but too far for iPhone pics.  More incredible views to be taken in.  Awesome cliffs from the well maintained trail. 

We hiked about 1 mile down the Cape Spear East Coast Path. 

It was a warm day, but upon returning to the lighthouse a cool breeze was welcomed to complete this hike.   We had Vinny out and about and decided it was time to go try out the Newfoundland Embassy Pub.

East Coast Hikes St John’s and North

The 336 km East Coast trail runs along the eastern edge of the Avalon Peninsula between Topsail Beach and Cappahayden.

Along the trail, you can see stunning ocean views, huge towering cliffs, lighthouses, abandoned settlements,  waterfalls and whales.  Since we are exclusively day and good weather hikers, we did only a few sections that came recommended by various people we met.  In another visit it would be cool to do day hikes tour where the tour would bring your stuff to the next overnight spot.  We always did out and-backs except for in the Signal Hill area where there were loops and criss-cross trails to be had. 

Stiles Cove

This was a highly recommended trail by several people.  They said to park at Satellite Rd to access where a ¼ mile to the trail on the coast where it could be taken North or South. Weather dictated these as evening hikes and we decided to stay in the gravel flat Stiles Trail Parking Area, right off Satellite Road.   There were two 3 car parking areas of gravel and flat and generally pretty quiet at night. 

Red Head Cove – South on the trail from Satellite Rd entrance

So many incredibly steep cliffs

So much emerald water

The hike was mostly tree covered until we got to Red Head where there was a nice pasture from which to view the Red Head Cove unobstructed by branches.

This hike featured some huge slanted flat rock in the beginning although we didn’t make it all the way to Flatrock on the trail.

Seems like flat rocks are a hot fishing place and even as we hiked back around 8pm there were fishermen hiking the trail to go to the flat rock where we hope they don’t catch a big one that could pull them in instead of them pulling the fish out.

Rain the next morning and afternoon, and another good evening was in the forecast, so we decided that we would hike north.

But first we decided to take the 15 minute drive Lorina’s Restaurant in Torbay.  Food, atmosphere, people and Wi-Fi were all super and got charging, I phone back-ups, and whale videos done as we waited for our calm partly sunny evening. 

Small Point and Dog Hole – North on the Stiles Cove Trail

Stiles Cove Path Day 2 was  equally as awestriking. 

There were fewer places for unobstructed views.

Venturing out between trees for an unobstructed view could mean a 100’s feet tumble to the emerald green waters, so we did a lot of peeking.

Walking over this freefall waterfall that was just over the edge of the trail.  I didn’t do a peek over from this waterfall but got a good view of the  waterfall  from across the rock ledge. 

The dog hole were two caves that had a booming(not really barking) when the wave hit just right, at least that’s what we thought. 

There was a really eerier dark thickly covered spot on the trail to – no views here.  We were the only ones on this trail today for this 5-mile out and back

The trail had steps and double boards through wet areas as we saw a few waterfall sources pass under us.   This trail was not up to the normal level repair of the Elves where we had hiked thus far, but we are pretty far north, and I guess less traveled. If there was a broken board the one next to it was always solid and allowed easy passage, just a bit more balancing for us, always good to practice.    There were probably about 50 such places in the 2 ½ mile section we hiked. There was very little steepness and such a pleasant walk in the woods with incredible views.

It was so nice to hike on soft dirt that had nice decayed pine needles which was most of it.    

Torbay Point,  Cobbler’s Path Trail

This should have been called whale point because we saw so many frolicking.  

Another local recommended East Coast Trail, Cobblers Path it itself was incredible. 

We were killing time and decided to head up here from St. John’s just before the Newfoundland Folk Fest doors open 

The hike and the gorgeous views would have been enough, but we were mesmerized by the whales for over an hour. 

John doesn’t usually like to stop for so long on a hike, but the whales were so close you could hear the exhales as they spouted, perfect lulling for a trail nap.

Another Newfoundland awesome day. 

Cobbler’s Path to Red Cliff

The most majestic long drawn out, beautifully exquisite Newfoundland coastline is on this trail. 

Emerald green coves with vertical rock cliffs

The super steep drop-offs to the crashing waves below

What a way to end our last East Coast Hike in Newfoundland.  

It has been incredible and there are still so many to be hiked.  

North Head Trail Loop

They say this is the oldest Signal Hill Trails and has quite the jaw dropping cliffs that accompany “The Rock” designation. 

Coastline hiking at its best with those Elves providing plenty or handrails and steps. 

Beautiful views on the St John’s Harbor Narrows.

Deep crevices to ponder.

The treacherous edges hike along the rock with a view St John’s industrial port. 

The in-land return of the All Trail Loop after Harbour Dock, did not reflect the fastidiousness of the Trail Elves to whom we have become accustomed.   We wound our way back down on these steeper,  not so scenic sections and we ended up saying hi to someone on their front porch because the trail went 5 feet to their entrance as they were talking to a neighbor.  We had parked way up high on Battery Rd and found the trail which was marked, but also seemed to go through houses side yards which seemed a bit awkward.  

Perhaps this is why the local hiking materials started at the Signal Hill Parking Lot and didn’t do All Trails North Head Loop as we were doing.  

There are lots of trails that criss-cross in this area to hike on and perhaps a better loop is available. 

St John’s Experiences

The Newfoundland  People

So many genuine, good hearted fun people.  We met Cindy and Rob at the Elk’s Club happy hour as we wanted to find a place to park so we could easily walk to the Newfoundland Labrador Folkfest.  

The next day they invited us to their house for an over the top gourmet brunch of Bona Vista smoked salmon, eggs benny, fruit, extended with homemade sesame ice cream and sweets.  

It is so heart warming meeting people who are so welcoming, but this is the way of the Newfoundland people Ron told us.  We all so desperately need to live like them.  

Newfoundland Labrador Folk Festival

They say this 49th may be their last NL Folkfest as the last years have been losing money.  Poor weather has plagued the fest, but it really was only rainy  for the Saturday morning session.  We were thrilled to hear The Once and the incredible vocal harmonies of By The Glow of the Kerosene Light once again.  

Also the powerhouse blues guitarist/vocal Matt Amderson ripped it up on Friday night with Rockin In the Free World 

Serena Ryder had incredible energy and stage presence although at the end of the set the drum beat overtook the lyrics. Camping Music fests are still my favorite, but we did get to camp only 20 minute walk at our Elks club which was very quiet.  Jeff Pittman the storyteller troubadour has such hysterical lyrics.  Len O’Neill with the Kid Couldn’t Find a Calling really spoke to me.  Best of all we got to see the Salt Beef Junkies again.  

The Polky Band from Poland who played a unique stringed instrument called the Suka which translated means “Bitch.” They had so much fun with the audience during this enjoyable weekend.

Signal Hill

This very famous place that broadcasted messages from Europe and America as usual went back and forth between English and French control, but eventually the British held it. A planned stop at the Visitor’s Center Chocolate Café for lunch and what else but Chocolate Gelato was to break up out hike.  

We even got to see the noon cannon firing a dozen times and the Parks Canada entrance was free. Whoo-hoo.   The orientation movie was really good and depicted the hard life that the people who lived there had because of the terrible weather.  A bit of history mixed in with the extraordinary ocean views is always in our wheel house of enjoyment. St John’s harbor is bustling with industry especially when cruise ships come from away.

This Canada Day was an 8-mile day between hiking the Cuckholds Cove Trail to the Ladies View and Up to Signal Hill and back down the Burma Road Gravel Path.  This wide gravel path was not too exciting except for passing a few ponds, but it was fastest so we could get to the beer that was calling from the Big Blue Tent in Quidi Vidi. Ladies Lookout where the women would wait for the men to come home had some beautiful lookouts.

Titanic Exhibition

Learned lots about the many deficiencies and failures that contributed to this disaster.  The Wealthy Business Tycoons circumventing many safety features including having enough life boats when voyage was only about ½ full, was just one of them.  The passenger messages that were really novel to send back to Europe were more important than the repeated warnings from multiple sources about icebergs.   This first day we scoped out pubs for music as well, but best we shower and charge up Vinny. 

The Rooms Museum

This is top notch Museum that we walked to from Pippy Park Campground along the Atlantic Maritime trail (turning left) to cross Allandale Rd. and then heading right and finding the trail the leads to Rennie River Walk which you can take all the way to Quidi Vidi Lake or bail of to a side street and head downtown. Got our first good moose pic here. 

The Pubs 

Newfoundland Embassy

A pub at which Faith, the Quidi Vidi tent performers, had a regular gig.  It was early but we were thirsty from our Cape Spear Hike.  Met Paula and Sheila whose 63rd birthday was today.  I too was 62 born in 62 last year, just like Sheila pointed out.  

O’Reilly’s Pub

Salt Beef Junkies provided the music for the early evening with three guys ages 13, 16 and 19 years-old.  They were really good and they also are on the schedule for the NL Folkfest.  They also said they had been selected to travel with Rum Ragged, a famous Canadian group.  Small world again, we met a couple and the woman went to my high School, Mt. Pleasant about 4 years prior to me.  It was time to go home.

Terre

A restaurant in the Alt Hotel had been recommended by out Quidi Vidi Tent friends.  Very upscale and delicious, we were so ready for non-fried bar food or my own one pot and a frying pan  meals.   Of course, John asked for Jalapeno in his Espresso Martini and the bartender even liked it.  Our waitress suggested that we go to Burgeo.  This was the second person who had done so, I found a camping reservation Sandbanks Provincial Park

Erin’s Irish Pub

Irish session music 7-9pm.  Trying to be in a 4^th of July celebration mood, but it’s difficult. 

Yellow Belly Brewery

It’s a cool location and decided step in.  John was still hungry and he got the best ever mashed potatoes with gravy.  They serve a short ribs dinner when we return for the Folkfest.

Ship Pub

Singer Songwriter guitarist who was very good.  This was one of the big pub venues that we have visited, but still small.  The band with a trombone and two trumpets among typical band instruments, made it a bit loud so we called our taxi.  I also read they do some type of a folkfest here too. We were not walking back.  There are lots of hills in St. John. 

Duke of Duckworth

Fish and Chips was the specialty and you could get them pan fried as well. And they even stencilled my beer with a California Scene.  

Pop’s Diner

We visited Pop’s Diner 3 times all together and excellent breakfast that they served until 4pm – right up John’s alley.  I stopped in at the Photography shop who was listed as a GoPro dealer and finally found out how to get my photos off the camera with a direct line.  Go into Photos on the Ipad and eventually the device will pop up icon the same area as all the albums etc.  

St. John’s is quite hilly and there are hardly any bike lanes.

St John’s was a really welcoming, musical and fun city. 

St. John’s

Quidi Vidi

St John’s

Cape Spear Lighthouse

East Coast Hikes St John’s and North

Torbay Pt on Cobbler’s Path

Stiles Cove

Red Head Cove – South on the trail from Satellite Rd entrance

Small Point and Dog Hole – North on the Stiles Cove Trail

Torbay Point,  Cobbler’s Path Trail

Cobbler’s Path to Red Cliff

North Head Trail Loop

St John’s Experiences

The Newfoundland  People

Newfoundland Labrador folk festival

Signal Hill

Titanic Exhibition

The Rooms Museum

The Pubs

Newfoundland Embassy

O’Reilly’s Pub

Terre

Erin’s Irish Pub

Yellow Belly Brewery

Ship Pub

Duke of Duckworth

Pop’s Diner

St. Vincent’s Beach

We had heard that the humpbacks were to be at St. Vincents, so much like we rushed to get to Twillingate for the Icebergs, we were in a bit of a rush to see these magnificent creatures too.  When we arrived, the frenzy was in full swing.  We kept walking down the beach to get closer. – no easy feat as it was mostly cherry sized rocks and it was overcast 

It was just amazing to see these whales so close by. 

Then it started to rain and my winter puff jacket was no longer puffy because we just kept following them down the beach getting wetter and wetter. I got several great videos and made a 2 minutes best video clips, most at half speed, but the wind was also blowing and there was not much drying room in  Vinny.  Luckily the sun came out suddenly, and the windy, windy weather put the puffy right back in my jacket.  Good time for a nap.During the evening there were few that  came in briefly.

We had moved Vinny to the parking area on the Southeast side of the beach because that first day the whales were here.   We had a commanding view of the shoreline and were at the end of a parking area where other RVs were overnighting too. We got an incredible sunset too. 

The next day, although one of the sunniest we had experienced, there were no whales.  We felt very spoiled as so many people took there Saturday to come down from St John’s to see them and it was cold and very windy as they sat on the beach.  We sat high up in Vinny’s seats, sun shining in and had a perfect view of the ocean.

Sunday Morning – they were out on this beautifully sunny and less windy morning.  The whales seemed to be calmer than on the first day, but there were many of them combing the waters.  

The crashing waves were particularly high and the creatures were very close.  Of course this morning they were concentrated on the other end of the beach, so I huffed it down ½ kilometer in the rocks, getting a complete body workout as my arms were burning from holding the camera up for over 2  hours to get this 5 minute of whale frenzy.

Vincent’s Beach on the south east part of Newfoundland.  This area is known as the Irish Loop.  Vincent’s Beach is unique in that it is a protected 1 km beach that has an extremely deep drop-off.  Couple this with the fact that Capelin fish, we are talking thousands, roll up near shore with the tide to lay their eggs, and then roll back to the ocean.  This attracts humpback whales that feed on them and the squid that are further up the food chain.  Unlike a fish ball in the ocean they become somewhat trapped by whales that are having a feeding frenzy since there is only one way to escape when they get near the shore.  When enough whales are on the prowl it makes for quite a shoreline show. 

Capelin Roll

The Capelin Roll is the state where they are actually coming up on shore and Newfies are all about scooping them out of the water and drying them for a winter’s supper. Basically, free food which we have been told are delicious and seems to be a tradition. Even food banks request Capelin if people are scooping more than they can use.    We have not seen this phenomenon where beaches are covered with fluttering silver Capelin which are 8 to 10 inches long and are in the Smelt family.  The Newfie Capelin, Whale, Iceberg Facebook group posts the sitings.   One of our bartenders said they are very smelly fish and she would never again load them into her car.                            

Ferryland 

Ferryland Lighthouse Hike

One could walk around the lighthouse on small narrow paths, but the view around the entire small peninsula was amazing.  

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We pushed Vinny to the limit as we inched up a gravel path where most of it was blown away,  and rocks and potholes were everywhere on this one-lane road with passing pull-outs.  Well, we got up there, so might as well boondock at this extraordinary location in case we lose the generator or fluid pipe/tank on the way down.   

I had read about the Lighthouse Picnics that some ladies had started years ago, but they only operate Wednesdays thru Sundays. 

At the entrance there is a Ferryland Visitor Center and an Archeological Site where history from the 1600’s was being pieced together.  As usual the British and French were always taking control over one another, but there was also a bit of Portuguese that came through. There is a Tetley Tea Room and a Theater that offers a repeating show it looks like, as well as a gift store at the end strip mall of offerings. 

Also, in Ferryland, Sullivan’s Song house offers a kitchen party show on Wednesday and Saturday.  They were all booked up.  

South Shore Festival Concert Association has an annual summer theater that sounds fun too.

The boondocking was incredible, I just wished the road was improved like all the excellently maintained hiking trails, but we made it down with no casualties.   

Topsail

Topsail was our destination because a concert was going on in the Topsail United Church.  I had met Mallory Johnson at Stanfest, and this concert was to have the other Cormiers who were her Mom, Uncle and Cousin. Evidently the Cormiers are quite the musical family, and we had seen the talent of JP Cormier at Stanfest as well, but he doesn’t appear to be related according to John’s Internet stalking.  It was a great show in a small venue and we slept out in the parking lot about 25 feet from the gentle sloshing of the ocean waves. The next morning, we met the delightful pastor who now says we need to go to Brigus and eat at the Vindicator Press which is conveniently located near the Newfoundland Distillery and Baccalieu Trail Brewing.  

We took a hike on the Topsail Miners Trail which was a perfect 3 mile hike, a bit more woodsy and with more rocks, than in most trails we have covered in Newfoundland. A perfect leg stretcher before dinner and then off to the show.  Topsail Beach and the Trailhead was a huge parking lot with washrooms and a few brave hearts swimming. We did not see any no overnight parking signs. 

Petty Harbor

The Petty Harbour Mini Aquarium – a place where you can pick up all kinds of suitable crabs, starfish and squishy creatures, something different on the recommendation of a Massachusetts couple I met in the laundry room at Pippy Park.  They also said the seafood chowder at Chafe’s Restaurant was the best and they are from sea-fooders from New England. 

Dildo Brewing

Dildo received notoriety when the town embraced Jimmy Kimmel’s offering to place a similar Hollywood sign on a Hill in the town.  Maybe the town once specialized in making these oar lock pins which is also a nautical term for dildo.   So, we had to go see this famous sister Hollywood sign and plus there is Dildo Brewery and that’s what we usually do.  We heard Neil Simmons who played the most diverse set of songs for three hours that we have ever experienced.  Would definitely come to see him again, although he said he was just visiting from Labrador.  

Dildo was a halfway stop as we had rushed to St. Vincent’s for whales from Bona Vista.

Anderson’s Cove was our boondock site as recommended by Neil.  It was very close to the Brewery and beautiful.  

La Manche

The La Manche Provincial Park Campground was perfect for a bit of a rest day after two 5 mile hikes on Stiles Cove Trail.  We even scored an electric site next to the comfort station where we could pick up the better than usual Wi-Fi right from Vinny.   Sunset to do laundry and was only 75 cents a load.  

Right from the campground, there was a delightful easy 1 mile hike to a lovely waterfall, but the surroundings were much like hiking in Delaware along a quiet path, not like the other dramatic hikes we have experienced here on the coast of The Rock. 

La Manche Village Trail

This 3 mile hike went to a really cool suspension bridge over the La Manche River that goes through the small waterfall. The river empties into a long bay before it empties to the ocean. 

The old bridge and the 100 year old fish village of La Manche was destroyed in a storm in 1966. 

People were forced to relocate. The narrow bay looks so protected and beautiful, but I guess not in 1966.  

The suspension bridge was built in 1999 and is part of the East Coast Trail.  The trail ends at Doctor’s Cove about ¼ mile after the bridge.  

Several sections on the trail were Christmas Tree forests with the branches so subtle that brushing through them did not scratch you at all. These smelled so good too and were so green. 

This Island is famous for the Fogo Inn where a room goes for 2 to 3 thousand dollars a night.  Maybe Zika has a friend/relative special rate, but the story of the Fogo Inn is interesting.  Zika Cobb went to the Silicon Valley and made lots of money in the Stock Market.  She decided to return and invest in her economically struggling community on Fogo Island.  In 1992, 60,000 people of Newfoundland lost their jobs because the cod fish were overfished, and many had to relocate to other Provinces.

With this amassed wealth, she started several Artist in Residence Programs and finally built the World-Famous Fogo Inn using in town trades people.   

The hiking is so incredibly beautiful and varies up and down throughout.

So many steps through steep large boulder areas.

So many well maintained  plank boardwalks through bogs.  

So many coastlines that were totally reachable on foot unlike the cliffs that are part of mainland Newfoundland.

Hikes are relatively short, most under 3 miles, but the entire walk is with minimal elevation gain making for and a relaxing time unless of course you’re climbing to one of the Heads. 

But the scenery is breathtaking. 

Trails and Tales

Joe Batt’s Trail

This famous 3.1 mile/144 feet elevation trail offers many views of the infamous Fogo Inn. The Great Auk, an extinct native bird, let‘s you know that you have reached the end. By the 1850 Auks had been hunted to extinction as they awkwardly waddled and were easy prey and in high demand for feathers, meat and fat. 

It is one of the Fogo Island must-do’s.  Again, a leisurely beautiful walk with planked walkways and bridges and steps when needed.

Started out a Community Park and Ballfield,  with a small wooded stage that host the Etheridge’s Point Seaside Folk Fest in August.  

So many beautiful views and such varied terrain yet mild elevation gain. 

Another ultra modern style, but dark brown, sits along the Trail – we could see someone working at a desk wall through the huge windows. 

Fogo Island Inn Tour

First stop on the Island was the Visitor’s Center where we found out it was possible to do a tour of the Inn, which was scheduled for Thursdays.  You just need to call the Inn to reserve. 

There is no driving up to the Inn.  You meet at the shack right orf Route 334; we were told we could walk up the road or wait for a shuttle.  Our guide greeted us right near the lobby entrance and bar. 

The Inn was made to look very Newfoundland with wood planking that ran on the ceiling and walls.  She said that it was not to look too perfect, but have slightly imperfect seams making it authentic looking.

The Shorefast Foundation was founded by Zita Cobb to promote economic development and resilience on Fogo Island.   The Inn was the main project with all of the furniture and woodworking being done in the local woodshop.  Construction of the Inn was completed in 2013 and included all local crafting.  This bench seat tapestry below depict the Newfie life. 

The quilts, tapestries and décor was also all made by locals including the very cool rope chandeliers that hung over the gathering room.

Each of the 29 rooms faced the ocean with private balcony partitions to access the outside. The rooms were simple and contained a wood stove.

There was a library, a social room with a grand piano,  and a theater for movies/lectures among things like hot tub areas that we did not see. 

The décor was quite simple really and not what I would expect for a 2000 a night room. 

Each of the stairways had a different wall paper design depicting something of the island; since we were not guests, we took the stairs exclusively except for our first stop at the 4^th Floor.  Those Fogo Island designed stairway wall paper stops were perfect for stopping the group  and minimizing time in the paying customer areas.   Most importantly it is a success story of a former Fogo resident that used her riches to help out her economically struggling community through the Shorefast Foundation providing working opportunities.

The hiking all around Fogo Island is so much bang for your buck. Such beautiful views everywhere without having to climb difficult terrain.  The entire hike for most of them had beautiful scenery and I would say it is truly a hiking paradise for those who are not such avid hikers.   The trails are cut and well groomed even through the fields, bogs with so many steps, and viewing platforms.  

Brimstone Head Trail

The Lions Club runs the Campground and maintains the Trail up to the Brimstone Head as well as the campground.

Vinny is parked way right at the end of the cove. At times a bit windy, but so beautifully situated. 

There is a resident black fox who I first sighted on the first super windy day hike to the top.

He was quite aware of my presence and only jumped way as I moved closer. 

I would see him again the next morning has he was on the pounce for some critter or another.

The Brimstone Head viewing platform from fox level is impressive. I was quite glad for the various handgrip accouterments ato the top especially in that crazy windiest hike so far – glad there was no wet rocks. 

Really nice was the fenced viewing platform in that crazy wind. The Wishing Well Side Trail led you to a wishing well that contained water that looked up to the Brimstone Head and was extremely windy too. This path was wider and more meandering and  grassy but had many beautiful views as well.

Lion’s Den Trail

This 4.6 mile 708 feet elevation trail near Fogo was beautiful on this evening hike when the wind had died and our Bang Belly Bistro visit required a bit of a metabolism boost.  

Too many beautiful sunset photos. We never did find the picnic table that is in honor of Randy’s deceased grandparent.  Randy is the caretaker of the Brimstone Campground and told me specifically where to look and to make sure I leave a message in the bottle that is tied to the table. 

We thought it may have been to the right at the end of this rock grouping, but the trail was getting narrower and less groomed, and decided we still a 2 miles to go. 

This  area is made up of four abandoned fishing communities which thrived in the late 1800‘s and established commercial trade in the early 1900‘s.  At this time the Marconi wireless was being required to support weather conditions for both fishing and sealers(seal hunting).  This station would be closed down in 1934 as all stations transformed to tube transmission to prevent radio interference. Signal Hill in St John’s was selected to perform this function.  

The wind had died down nicely and the walk was beautiful this evening.

There were many side excursions to the abandoned fish communities like the trails  to  Eastern Tickle. 

And Lockes Cove 

The Tickle area was exceptionally beautiful during sunset. FYI:  a tickle is the narrow pinch point between the ocean and a bay. 

The rock formations along with some in the trees paths and greenery  made the Lion’s Den Hike exceptionally interesting even though we didn’t find Randy‘s Grandparent’s Picnic Table. 

Oliver’s Cove Trail

Oliver really did a nice job of this 2.5 mile/121 feet elevation loop through grassy pastures and crystal clear water.  

Up black rocky outcropping glittered with mica, especially against the green patches. The sparkling of the black rocks was really exquisite and I have never seen such abundance in one area. 

More jagged rocky shoreline. 

Small Ponds in the middle of the soft green bogs..

This trail ended in a dirt road back to Vinny who stood watchfully.

We had already completed the Joe Batt‘s Arm trail today, the Inn Tour, Growlers Ice Cream, Beer at Storehouse and we still had the Community Music Gig in Tilting to do.  It was a busy day, but one needs to take advantage of sunny weather in Newfoundland.

Fogo Head Trail

This was another 2.2 mile 446 feet elevation gain trail and we did it in the evening since the wind was scheduled to die down.  

But the low lying clouds,  in other words, the fog was also coming and going as we hiked.  Luckily not too thick, and  just made the whole thing a bit interesting really.

This made for a very mystical evening hike and the fog would roll away and come back so quickly. 

We found the beginning of the loop trail right up the road from the Brimstone Campground, but this was not the beginning Parking Trailhead that we came to at the end of our hike.  We could have hiked back the way we came or we opted to walk the roads through residential areas since fog could have gotten thicker. 

Residential areas are charming and so took the opportunity to get a few photos.

This was part of the Fogo Head Loop and was about 1 km of road walking back to the starting and the Brimstone Head Campground. 

Fogo Island Towns

Fogo

Bang Belly Bistro

We had tried to lunch here unsuccessfully and met the manager outside this dinner only restaurant.  So after chasing weather forecasts, and deciding wind was to calm down in the evening, we scheduled a first 4pm reservation that Sunday so that we could accomplish the Lion Den Hike that evening.  We had come across the manager again as we stopped to have a coffee at the Punch Buggy Coffee Shop.

Evidently the Bang Belly Manager was also manager for the sister coffee shop as he referred to it.  It was so nice to overhear him talking so nicely to the  café staff, and then said that he had better get Bang Belly up and running for our 4pm reservation – So small town.   Meanwhile I stopped in at the “This and That” store across the street where I have never seen a collection of so many hand knitted hats and gloves in my life. 

They sold these cushions which I also saw at the Bang Belly Bistro and Fogo Inn. Perfect to use up all those yarn ends.  Fogo has a real sense of people making things for sale to the summer tourists = products were very reasonable an I almost bought a red kids sweater like the one Ma had made for the girls in our Saint Ann Days.  The restaurant décor was retro and the metal/synthetic seat chairs looked like chairs from grade school, but adult sized.  Mismatched napkins were neatly surged to go along with the mismatched.

carrot puree shot brought out by our now acquainted manager.

John had the Savory Sourdough Bread Pudding with Sous-Vide Carrots and I had 

the Jiggs Pakora which is a deep fried cabbage, carrot, turnip mash, split pea puree with salty beef chutney.  For the main course I had Chicken and Potato Waffle which sounds plain, but add the spicy maple syrup with roasted corn and cabbage and mustard pickles to the crispy chicken and it had a world of deliciousness.

John had the BBQ Miso Cod with roasted carrots, turnip, soy and herb oil caramelized cabbage. We had pulled an “eat hardly anything all day”,  like we did in our college days in anticipation for this feast, and boy that did the trick.  Good that we had hiking plans or it might have been food coma time.  Evidently, reservations are highly recommended for this outstanding restaurant.     

Cod Jigger Diner  

After being turned away for lunch at the Bang Belly Bistro, the manager had recommended  Cod Jigger Diner where the bacon is supreme and the Wi-Fi is screaming. Sat here and did all the backups to the I-cloud and even had electricity during this cold blustery day.     

Joe Batt’s Arm

According to legend Joe Batt’s Arm, the largest of 11 communities on Fogo Island, was named after a crewmember of James Cook who jumped ship in Gander Bay in 1763 while surveying the area.  I guess he really liked it. He later arrived on Fogo Island community and was so well liked that they named the area after him.  The Arm was a term that indicated a place was wrapped around an inlet.   Someone does a great job of tending to this trail.  

This town of Joe Batt’s Arm was chosen as the infamous Fogo Island Inn.  We also saw people plowing small gardens on the trail edge.  We had noticed several places along the smaller Newfoundland highways where people had some fenced gardens and then we saw one right near the ball field entry of Joe Batt’s Arm Trail.

Growlers Ice Cream was perfect for our after hike treat before the Fogo Inn Tour. Yum. 

Storehouse for a mid-day beer and fries – no bar and we were required to order some food at this tastefully decorated restaurant which was part of Fogo Inn conglomerate.  Good Wi-Fi here too and we had heard the food here was excellent as well. What a cute teapot shelf.

Tilting

Heritage Center hosts a Thursday night Music Session in the charming Rock Bridge Café right on the wharf.  The Café was closed, but the adjoining quilt/gift store was open. Rather than a play together Irish/Bluegrass style session, several musicians took turns performing. With a few tunes,  the leader tried to initiate as play/sing-a-long. There were two storytellers there of whom we saw his front yard presentation on our Oliver’s Hike. He spoke very softly so my recording didn’t come out too well.   

Two accordions and a fiddler played a traditional jigs and waltzes and a couple of people danced. 

Toula Merchant Reunion was another concert we attended on Saturday night after seeing some bulletin board flyers.  Evidently one of the members, Paddy, lives in Tilting and arranged for his ole pals to come together at the Tilting Parish Club for this concert.  It turned out that the roommate, Andrew Dale,  of this group is a member of the “The Once” which is a group we heard and loved at StanFest last year. Boy could Andrew play a great electric lead guitar and mandolin too.  We even got to participate in the “Stop the Train” song written by Sherry Ryan about the human weather vane Lauchie MacDougal who could predict the Wreckhouse Winds.  Fun Night

Getting to Around Fogo Island

Brimstone RV Campground

I got reservations on-line two days prior to arrival in this mid June time-frame when we had decided to visit Fogo Island.  We had been warned that there are few campgrounds as well as places to boondock on Fogo Island, but it looked like there was an overflow ball field to this Brimstone Park.   Evidently it hosts a music fest in August where this field gets filled.  On Fogo there were many “no overnight” camping signs, but we did find a place to take a nap and have dinner in a 30 ft gravel driveway space between trees near on of those many ponds on the way to Tilting.  It would have been great for an overnight because there was no path to anything the gravel stopped at the pond.  Additionally, we noticed there was no sign at the Lion’s Den Parking Area so probably could have stayed there.  We had thought about staying an extra night but the morning of that Sunday there were only two RV spaces available at Brimstone Head, so we decided to spend out last night in line to catch the first morning ferry. 

Woolfreys Pond RV Resort

This was the closest Campground to the Fogo Island Ferry on the Newfoundland Mainland and we stayed here the night before going to Fogo.  The best unexpected thing about this campground is that it has a boardwalk around the pond which was so peaceful, so even in rainy weather it would provide for a nice 2 mile walk.  The dump station is located several hundred yards outside the park on the right hand side.  One could probably just use it for free because the office told us about it and there was none there. 

Ferry

Getting to Fogo is another 80-minute ferry ride.  The summer schedule had begun and there were about 5 ferries a day from the Twillingate Area – only $25 for our Vinny.  No reservations – you just line-up and wait.  All went pretty smoothly although the first smaller ferry didn’t fit us, but a second one was coming into the dock, so we easily got on this larger one. The return ferry was no additional cost and we slept in the line being awoken suddenly by the horn that said loading was beginning.  Seemed like this ride took less than an hour-good thing because we had no time for coffee and there was no services aboard.

Fogo Island, Newfoundland June 2025

Trails and Tales

Joe Batt’s Trail

Fogo Island Inn Tour

Brimstone Head Trail

Lion’s Den Trail

Oliver’s Cove Trail

Fogo Head Trail

Fogo Island Towns

Fogo

Bang Belly Bistro

Cod Jigger Diner

Joe Batt’s Arm

Tilting

Getting to Around Fogo Island

Brimstone RV Campground

Woolfreys Pond RV Resort

Ferry

Favorites

Spillars Cove Trail

Puffins, Puffins they must be cute with such a cute name.

After the Bona Vista Lighthouse viewing, we decided to do Spillars Cove Trail. 

This will always be one of our favorite hikes, not only for the coast cliffs but for the cute little curious colorful puffins. There was almost no one on this trail except John up on that flattop tide.

We found ourselves off trail to the rock edges and observed a few puffins flying into the cliff rocks.

Just standing still  as they flew in, they seemed to observing us; they seem to be social creatures as they moved around and poked and prodded each other.

Then they started to be a bit interested in us, moving closer and allowing us to do the same. Then there was a bit of a puffin squabble.

Before we knew it, they were only about 10 feet, putting on quite a cute show.The way they move is just so calming. 

It will always be a once in a lifetime showing for us, and the incredible cliffs were also so captivating.  

Dungeon Provincial Park 

 An incredible boondocking site.  The only gate was a grazing animal grate on either side. 

We had observed the horses on the first day, and then when we awoke from boondocking, they were there again only a bit more spirited and nosy.

I wish I had carrots for my white horse.

John went down to their grazing pasture and pet them.  Such a great way to do Grass maintenance and there were also cows for all the yummy Newfoundland Ice Cream. 

 Not exactly sure what is considered to be the dungeon in this park.  

Bona Vista Lighthouse

More incredible cliffs 

These adorable little colorful birds have been the source of economic sustenance  for many boat tours between the Icebergs, Whales and Puffins.

The Cape Shore Trail beginning at the Bona Vista lighthouse – a great place for Puffins on the Rock Ledges, but they are on an island of rock.

You had to stay on your side of the rocky cliff with 100’s of feet drop into the crystal clear waters of the ocean; 

the puffins island was on the other side.  SO you can never really get too close like we had done on the Spillars Cove Trail.Such incredible scenery.

Hikes / Places

Skerwink Trail, Port Rexton

Another one of those breathtaking coast cliff trails of Newfoundland, this 3.2 mile 203 ft elevation gain was stunning.

First down a gravel multi-use trail for about ½ kilometer before breaking off through the pine forests which was not so common on many trails so far.  It smelled like Christmas.

And between the trees that had nicely cut away by the wonderful Newfie Trail Elves,  rocky craggy cliffs were in lovely view from the trail along the cliffs.

There were some super steep drop offs to the green ocean below that I dared to peak over as John waited nervously.

The trail had all the step and rail accoutremants that so many of the trails in Newfoundland have to make it a very stressfree walk, unless you peak down the rocky cliffs several hundred deet below. 

We had opted to do this hike late in the day for wind purposes, although it still was somewhat gusty as we returned.  We overnighted right in the Trail Parking Lot opening to a lovely green field.  When we got started in the morning the parking lot was full and people were parked all along the roads for this very popular trail.

Elliston Puffin Viewing Site 

This an official Puffin Preserve that is crowed with tourists with big lens cameras  trying to get that perfect Puffin Picture.  Luckily my new IPhone is pretty good but nothing like when we were hiking Spillars Cove at 10 feet away. 

The green topped rock island is only reachable by those with wings, but like the Lighthouse set up, there is part of the rock that you can stand on and observe them from some 100 feet or more.

They are on the move flying down to the ocean where they are evidently quite good divers to get fish. 

Our hike on Spillars Cove with Puffins only 10 feet away took away from the allure of the Elliston Puffin Viewing Site. Elliston also is the root cellar capital of Canada or Providence one of those.

Elliston Municipal RV had poor cell and no Wi-Fi, but it seemed to have a beach that would be great to launch a paddle board if it were not so windy, which is almost never the case in Newfoundland.

Port Rexton Brewing

Harvest Host was on the way to the Bona Vista Peninsula so we overnighted there and stayed in small gravel parking area across from a church up the gravel driveway from the Brewery. It was a two-stop night at the Brewery. In the initial check-in session, guitar music lured us back to a small community room with sofas and a dart board.  Three friends on a conference in St John’s had picked up the guitar from the inviting stand and were doodling.  We sat and traded a few songs with them before they were off to their dinner plans and hike.  Time for us to take a nap.  Headed back down for some fries and beer as evening approached – the Rexford had pretty good Wi-Fi and my photos were getting to the cloud thankfully.  They even knew who Elephant Revival was.  They had super nice voices and two sang together in their university life – they had met up again for an Aneasteasoloagy  Conference in St. John so were do a bit of side travel in Bona Vista. 

Clarenville   –   WiFi, Water, LPG, Laundry

I needed to find a place to get my 700 photos of puffins and awesome scenery in the cloud before I dropped my phone over a cliff, that was the first task at hand.  Library was super slow, but the Bakery 56 was perfect with speeds in the 90mps range not 2 or 3 like so many places.  It was a new business with a delightful view, coffee, food, comfy cushioned chairs and lots of outlets to get all our devices charged as we had been boondocking for several days now.   

 Another task at hand was laundry and the Shepherds Laudrumat was perfect (must bring soap and $3 loonies per load. $3 to dry too).  Was not crowded at all, and I left John there as I tried to find good Wi-Fi and stopped by the Sobey’s for groceries.  This is where the guy at the Tellus store told me about Bakery 56. 

Thankfully we were starving and could properly support this local business because we sat there for several hour between a few downpours, and my 700 photos got to the cloud.  

This town is full-service with a Canadian Tire and Walmart and also an RV service area and RV Propane fill.  Many of the gas stations only do stand-alone tanks.  We should have found a dumpstation there.   The other issue we were having is that many campgrounds have boil requirements for water, and this was the first time we had been totally out of fresh drinking water.  Luckily the Foodland in Bona Vista has one of those you bring container fill stations so we did just that.  Much of the tap water had a brown tinge probably from tannins, but not what you want to drink. We stopped at Elliston Municipal RV Park and as they said they would return the next day we just swiped some brown boil only water for our tanks as we were running low too.  

Bona Vista Peninsula / Elliston / Port Rexton

Favorite

Spillars Cove Trail

Dungeon Provincial Park

Bona Vista Lighthouse

Hikes / Places

Skerwink Trail, Port Rexton

Elliston Puffin Viewing Site

Port Rexton Brewing

Clarenville   –   WiFi, Water, LPG, Laundry

Gros Morne National Park is the Natural Wonder of Newfoundland. Now in day 10 on the Rock, the two bucket list items are complete:  Icebergs and now the Western Brook Pond Boat Tour

Favorites

Western Brook Pond Boat Tour

The towering cliffs are high as 600-700 meter range – that’s 3 football fields high – were spectacular.   The cliffs make accessing the lake impossible except for the western side of the Pond where the terrain is nearly at sea level. 

Parks Canada is keeping this area pristine.   The fjord was carved by glaciers which eventually melted and the salt water was flushed out. Then Stag Brook as well as the many waterfalls filled the Pond. 

The water is ultraoligotrphic which means there are very few nutrients and organism making it extremely clear and pure.   It is quite spectacular and only one certified boat company is allowed to do tours much like at Maligne Lake/Spirit Island in British Columbia.

There are no roads going to the boat dock except for the 2 km gravel path.  $10 gets you a golf cart ride down to the boat dock with most people doing the easy walk through the muskeg, a peat forming  ecosystem which are scraggily fields where moose and antelope roam, but of course we saw none of this.

We did see a unique duck-like bird which determined to dig itself a hole and was not at all scared by us. We saw no canoes, kayaks or paddle boards but it was still quite cold. 

We were quite happy to have our winter puffy jackets and hats for the return and could not imagine paddling through these winds.  Kayaking is looked down upon the Internet says, and we heard tales of rocks slides every once in a while that create a thunderous boom, wave and dust cloud.  In early 1900’s a slide caused a 30 foot wave. 

My question was why is this called a Pond when it is 10 miles long with water depth in the 300 to 400 feet range.  Our Guide said it was a carryover from the British who even called the Atlantic Ocean a Pond  as in “across the Pond.”

It was an awesome day of incredible beauty.     

Green Gardens Hike

One of my all time favorite hikes.  During the first 2 kilometers you just wonder where the green of the gardens is. 

Then the ocean view.  This hike followed with cliffs and the grassy bluffs and beautiful coastal views and even steps down to the rocky beach.  

Parks Canada had arranged for some vigilant greenskeepers.  

It was a 6 mile day with ups and down and a 1200 ft elevation gain. 

The problem is there was a lot  of down, down down getting to the ocean bluffs and you knew that you would have to go back up, up, up at the end after being fatigued a bit by the hike anyway. 

The rocks cliffs and along with the green made it absolutely stunning on our beautiful sunny day.   

Hikes

Outlook Hike

The Outlook hike did just that provided incredible views looking Bonne Bay and East Arm from over 1000 ft elevation. 

The shaded walk upward dirt path continued into the scruff where Parks Canada had at least a kilometer of boardwalk assembled into shrubbery. 

It was a perfect workout for us 60 plusers and the views were amazing.

I had attempted this hike when we first came to Gros Morne and John was recovering from a head cold, but turned around because the fog was rolling in and it started to rain.   That day the damp, damp Newfoundland was a reality.

This hike starts right from the Visitors Center and can be combined with Photo I-cloud download and delicious Moose Soup or Cappuccino and a sweet treat. 

Baker’s Brook Falls

A nice 6 mile walk in the woods with less than 1000 feet of elevation.   The prize was the beautiful falls.   

And we even found several cute little toads along the way. 

Coastal Hike to Greenpoint Campground 

After being battoned down for a day of rain, we never even exited Vinny, John was feeling a bit better and we did the 3 mile hike along the Coast to Green Point. 

Here we investigated the Muskat Hotel as one of the rangers described it because the canopy had coverage like a roof of this tree. 

It was a nice and easy hike.

The salt water air felt great even though we had to beat back against the wind. We even found some fiddleheads. 

Camping at Green Point Campground would allow for this walk right from the campground. 

Green Point Geologic Site

This is where the layers of time tipped over and one can see them as you walk along the coast.  Perhaps we should take the guided hike because I was told that you can even see fossils, but our untrained eyes did not spot any.

The layers of limestone and shale were unique to see from a horizontal perspective. 

Tablelands

The hills are full of rusted peridotite. This rock is usually found deep within the earth’s crust and is rich in heavy metals creating an environment where few plants can survive. 

There are a few that have adapted like the Newfoundland State Flower, the Pitcher Plant. It attracts insects and the hairlike strands prevent them from escaping. Once inside the “pitcher”,  the excrement of these insects is where the plant gets water and nutrients to  thrive.

Tablelands are part of the ancient Lapetus Ocean floor that instead of being pushed downward got pushed upward exposing the Earth’s Mantle on one side and the Appalachian Mountains on the other. 

Furthermore, these Newfoundland Tablelands were instrumental in proving the theory of plate tectonics and Pangaea as these are the same rocks as in Africa and there were these green interesting alligator rocks here and called Serpentinite which are metamorphic peridotite.

We had decided to take the Parks Canada guided hike to understand a bit more about the Tablelands.

The hike was quite windy and we got back just as the sky began to sputter. 

Traveling to Places

Rocky Harbor

The 29 years running Anchors Aweigh musical performance is also home and performed three days a week at the Anchor Pub.  

Musicians were super talented and we loved the Led Zeppelin rendition of the traditional Newfoundland Song called Sonny’s Dream.  One of the original founders, the accordion player, had a whole series of costumes and especially funny explanations. This production came out of the downturn of the cod fish industries that economically devastated Newfoundland about 30 years ago.   They had a lot of energy and talent and even did a song where they got the whole waitress staff up dancing – the comradery was radiating in the place.  Finally they did a call out of all the places where people came from and did a song from the area.  In particular their walk across the artists from the Canadian Provinces was quite entertaining.   It was an enjoyable evening and well worth the money to support local talent.   

Norris Point 

Norris Point is the town where there are boat tours, stores, restaurants (Catstop Bar- under construction in this shoulder season, but heard it was the happening place on the Harbor) and shops. 

Twillingate to Gros Morne

Our drive from Twillingate to Gros Morne required a halfway stop at Lefty’s Pizza Parlor in Grand Falls Windsor.  We were lucky to find screaming Wi-Fi so all photos could make their way to the cloud and I-phone and I-pad backups could occur and the pizza was really good too.  We were both feeling a bit tired, as we had gotten screeched the prior night.  A small rest at nearby Gorge Park was perfect to break up the trip – a hiking trail is also available there.   And it doesn’t get dark to 10pm because we don’t want to hit a moose just see

Cow Head

Cow Head is home of the Theatre Newfoundland/Labrador Theater and of course we love to take in some of that when possible.  A local guy named Daniel Payne was providing the show for the Friday Night 25^th anniversary of the theater on the night we were passing through.  The very talented singer, accordionist and fiddler took us through some of the local music of the area in this smaller back theater.  It was so nice to hear his words without any amplification.  

At the performance, we briefly talked with an older couple.  Well, the next morning when I awoke, there was Darlene walking right by our cemetery hideout – I opened up and said hello and wouldn’t you know it, she invited us to the house for coffee on our way out of town.  

Darlene and George, had a cute little house with guitars on wall and harps in the corners and whole wall full of beautiful yarn.  Darlene wore another beautiful obviously hand knitted sweater which I had noticed the night before.  She gifted me a small woven and crocheted shawl.  She said she was mostly a weaver, but this was in her home in another province. 

Camping area

Elephant RV Park

When traveling from the east or south, one first comes to the Tablelands/Trout River area of Gros Morne. We found a private Elephant Head RV park between these two where we called ahead to secure a spot. Nice new facilities high on a flat grassy area with excellent cell coverage and very peaceful.  

Here if we had had been no clouds, it would have been great stargazing.   

They even had an air trampoline which I had to try out!  We followed the posted sign up a gravel road loop rather than take the Google Map route.  Upon leaving they had warned that this section of the loop was rough-and we have heard that the Canadians mean business when they say a road is rough.  The property also had several dome rooms and a nice community kitchen.  We decided to go private with the Elephant because we had not purchased A Gros Morne National Pass and it was getting late to do so, and didn’t want to take a chance tangling with the Parks Canada Mounties.

Berry Hill Campground in the Rocky Harbor

We did a rainy hour drive from Tablelands Area to the Berry Hill Campground in the Rocky Harbor Area.  Our campsite was pretty close to the community kitchen fireplace shelter and this had a wee bit of Wi-Fi with better reception when directly in the shelter.  We are enjoying yet another full day of planned rain in Vinny, although tonight we are going to the Anchor Pub for the Anchor’s Aweigh Musical Enlightenment in Rocky Harbor.

Trout River

No electricity here, but the spaces are tree surrounded and very private.  It took us a few tries to find the campground, but we found a picnic area with an incredible view of Bonne Bay. 

This picnic area was the back drop to Father’s Day dinner (Cream Chipped Beef – dad’s favorite) and phone calls with the girls.  We were the only ones there.  The 14 year old Oban seemed to do the trick on our Green Garden Hike muscles, and we both were great the next morning despite this 7 mile hike with 1200 feet elevation gain.  We had not done one of these for a while. 

Cow head

We arrived in the town in the afternoon and decided to have lunch at what seemed to be the main jigging Shallow Bay Restaurant/Inn which conveniently was located right across the street from the Theatre for which we planned to attend.  The bartender said that the Cow Head Lighthouse area would be a good place to park for a nice nap.  Turned out we found our boondocking site for the night in a small turn out right below the protection of the Anglican Cemetery that was up a dirt road above that provided a bit of protection from the winds that always seem to be blowing in Newfoundland.   This was a perfect boondocking site that was very close to town, yet quiet except for these strange sounding birds or maybe they were foxes, but both for our siesta and at night. The odd calls required me to have earplugs. 

We would definitely check the Theatre schedule when planning for Cow Head and travelling up north.   There is a Clover Farms grocery store and the area is charming.  The Shallow Bay Restaurant/Bar was quite large and we even came back after the show to watch the Stanley Cup where the Oilers actually won the game – we left before the comeback at the end though, only about half a dozen people at the bar during the first half, not exactly a Philly style loud crowd. 

Cow Head is the most northern part of Gros Morne, but still don’t know why it is called Cow Head. The Parks Canada, Shallow Bay Campground is nearby and people we met on the Boat Tour said it was quite nice and it has campsites with electricity.  Parks Canada always provides great facilities.

Gros Morne General Camping

In this beginning/mid June time frame,  would probably go up or down the Parks Canada campgrounds in this order or its reverse. If poor Wi-Fi is needed, get site close to kitchen.  We had very spotty cell service, but some did come through occasionally.  Visitor’s Center Wi-Fi way better

Shallow Bay / Cow Head

           Theater, Lighthouse and Western Pond Tour

Berry Hill Campground

           Hike Brooks Falls and Lookout

           Anchors Aweigh in Rocky Harbor

           Rocky Harbor Visitor Center Close with great WiFi and charging station at ever couch.

           Rocky Harbor Laundromat right across the street from Ice Cream

Trout River Campground – no electricity

           Green Gardens Hike

Tablelands Hike

           Trout River Hike

Parks Canada Info

The Tablelands Visitor Center allowed us to purchase an early bird Gros Morne annual pass for about $50 for the year.  We were planning to come and go to the park two more times during our Newfoundland visit, so this worked out perfectly rather than buying the $150 annual family pass for all Parks Canada that we would probably not use.  Although Terra Nova National Park is in Newfoundland, my research showed it to not be so spectacular and I had decided to let it fall out.  I spent a lot of time with the friendly park staff to get the 4-1-1 for all the places we must visit while in Gros Morne and while in Newfoundland.  It was quite the drizzly day, and as John was congested and coming down with something or other, so I took advantage of a few really nice people at the Park Info Desk.  

The Parks Canada Visitor’s center are brand new facilities.  Rocky Harbor had just opened and it was quite pleasant to sit in the lobby and enjoy some faster internet – way better than at the Campground kiosk and there were comfortable chairs with electricity, beautiful scenery and nice bathrooms.   Today we are going to try and download a season of Joe Pickett which helped pass the rainy days. 

Parks Canada will not take reservations online for the current day, you just need to show up and be lucky.  On the other hand, I have been searching for several days at the end of June when returning from St Anthony and it seems there are always non-electric sites available in all their campgrounds.  There seems to be many private RV parks with full hookups throughout the area too. 

Gros Morne

Favorites

Western Brook Pond Boat Tour

Green Gardens Hike

Hikes

Outlook Hike

Baker’s Brook Falls

Coastal Hike to Greenpoint Campground

Green Point Geologic Site

Tablelands

Traveling to Places

Twillingate to Gros Morne

Cow Head

Camping area

Elephant RV Park

Berry Hill Campground in the Rocky Harbor

Trout River

Cow head

Gros Morne General Camping

Shallow Bay / Cow Head

Berry Hill Campground

Trout River Campground – no electricity

Parks Canada Info