Birkenhead & Gates Lake & Nairn Falls

Birkenhead Lake Provincial Park BC is a Stand-Up Paddle Board (SUP) paradise.  We have been off the spreadsheet for about a week now due to the smoke from wildfires and the obsession with getting John a SUP.  We had been told by many that this is one of the most beautiful Provincial Parks, and the bonus is that it is so perfect for the new found paddling pastime.  So, on our final days off-the-spreadsheet, we were on dirt packed, washboard road up to this Lake.  This very bumpy ride keeps the Park small and the remoteness big, and the campground has huge private wooded sites.  

We were on the water before noon, with Paddle Boy carrying one under each arm on the 3-minute walk to the water.  

An all-day adventure was planned, and the goal-oriented selves that we are, decided to reach the other side of the 4 mile lake which at the time we really didn’t know exactly how far it was.  

But as we paddled out, we met a paddler trio and were given a bit of a low down about paddling on Lake Birkenhead and where there are some good places to stop etc… 

We would meet these same three on our way back and it was good to hear about paddling in BC. 

The day was warm and sunny and several off-board lake frolics were experienced including a 360 degree in the lake vantage point. 

Another important aspect of paddling is a term we coined called, Nap-Upon-The-SUP( NUTSUP)   Nothing like floating on your back on the board with slapping water gently rocking you to sleep.  

Although engines are allowed on this lake, Monday was not popular and the few ski boats were out in late afternoon as the lake temperature is still cold. Especially as we reached the other side, fewer and fewer humanoids were around, and we did a NUTSUP right under a Bald Eagle who I was hoping would take flight, so not exactly a nap for me.  But the lazy bugger just sat there for ½ hour and we still had about half the lake to get to, so the inflight eagle video will need to wait. 

As we made our way back, we had been warned that wind picks up on the lake in the afternoons making the return a bit more challenging. The on-line Provincial Park Info actually says that SUP is not suitable for this reason, but the paddler trio just said keep to the shore and it will be fine.  So, we did some wave bouncing and really got a great old people balancing workout down.  The wind wasn’t really that bad as far as our desert standards go, but we for sure made slower progress.  Met the same paddler trio on the way back, and the women even offered to give me a tow, she said JoJo was not tracking so well.  I think she felt bad because on the way out she had said that the wind blows the opposite way usually, and it is easy to get back.  She who owns three SUPs, and the choice of the day was a narrow touring model which went gliding through the water unlike our more stable fatso models.   Winds can change and we have not found paddling to be tiring like climbing a 2300ft Ha Ling Trail where you are sweaty, and quads burn and breaking something on the way down is always on your mind.  After about 45 minutes of paddling, my feet fall asleep, so luckily, I have no knee issues and I drop down to carry on until they wake up, but upper body is not burning at all.  NUTSUP or a swim in the lake will always bring them back to feeling quickly too.

We arrived back at our Campground beach waters and suddenly it was placid after quite an enduring paddle.  The sun was setting into the mountains and what a better time for some NUTSUP.

 Our 6-hour tour was certainly a highlight of our Canadian experience.  Don’t worry, we had several other shorter, gaining experience, paddling ventures before undertaking this grand one.   I had to put this one to the front of this post because of its awesomeness, but the how we got here and the people we met along the way are the story that follows.

Nairn Falls

Nairn Falls was to be a pass through on the way to Whistler, but after waking up in Salmon Arm BC in the residual smoke we decided to keep going West where the air quality was better.  We never did the Revelstoke National Park, just a drive by and wave on the way to Salmon Arm to find Paddle Boy a Paddle Board at Canadian Tire.  JoJo needs a cohort – so far John’s SUP remains nameless.  That’s what brought us to the Harvest Host, North County Cider for and overnight where we played music in the orchard and chatted with the evacuee and Sadie, her golden retriever, who was operating the tasting room and staying in a trailer on the property. Notice how we remember the dog’s name and not the woman. And the next day, John was equipped. 

A bit of Canadian/Native culture…Joffre Lakes was supposed to be a mid-route stop on the way to Nairn and for a hike, but the park suddenly closed an hour before we got there.  A hand written sign said sorry the Native Peoples needed to inhabit the area for their gathering and rituals, and they were exercising their rights to their land.   One of the very few times we have seen the Royal Canadian Mounted Police (they were in Patrol cars with earpieces talking to what appeared to be the leaders of this native people-no horses). There was no show down or anything, but I guess they were there for law and order, since camping reservations were canceled without notice for some. We learned a lot about the Natives People of the Spirit Island area and how similar to the US, they were put on reservations in Canada in the early 1900’s, and now how effort is being made to give rights back without disrupting the entire National and Provincial Park System.   Joffres lakes will need to be next time and it is supposed to be one of the premiere blue glacier’s hikes…I think it is just a hike, and would be too far for Paddle Boy to carry both boards anyway.  We were keen on paddling now that we had two. We decided to head all the way to Nairn Falls and arrive in the evening on a Thursday.  We were a bit stressed about not having a spot, but now we know how to navigate the last-minute cancellation system within a BC  park campgrounds.  Successful day, tomorrow would be pumping JoJo’s new cohort and making sure he doesn’t pop. 

First, a lovely morning ride to check out the possibilities. We ended up on a mountain bike path many times needing to walk up the hills, but that meant there were hills to ride down too, and there were no huge rocks or cliffs.  We found One Mile Lake (SUP possibility) was close but would need to drive to transport JoJo and Duke (John has decided to name his SUP after his favorite 4 legged).  Talked with an older couple with their delightful English accents about Pemberton (so English) this is town just a bit down the road.  We were starved after this unexpected “little” campground ride-about and had delicious lunch at the Mile One Restaurant. Luckily Canada takes Apple Pay almost everywhere because all we had was my phone.    The friendliest visitor’s center ladies pointed us to Gates Lake, a 25-minute drive, but bigger than the One Mile which looked like it was crawling with young school groups. 

Duke was pumped up and had his virgin launch at this gorgeous Gates Lake that was set in the mountains and so peaceful.  

The water was clear and beautiful, and the skies were partly cloudy so it was quite nice to paddle, but a bit too cool to jump in the lake.  John was really SUP hooked now and the Salmon Arm smoke was worth it, as we paddled and napped on the boards in the late afternoon on a Friday.  

When we arrived back at the Gate’s Community Park launch, we found out about the Gates community buzz – there would be a community market with a band all afternoon at the park the next day, not to mention something about a garlic fest too.  The bakery was doing the once-a-month brick oven pizza night (not that we aren’t accustomed to that Thank Jim).  Well, we weren’t about to miss out and talked to several different friendly people about this small-town hoopla. We had decided to slide both fully blown paddle boards into Vinny for the first time. 

 It worked perfectly because the bikes and rack were back at the campsite, and the Vinny’s French door easily opened which not usually the case.On the way home, of course, was the Pemberton Brewery, about which we were under-whelmed, but met a really nice young couple who we had seen at Gates Lake earlier.    

The next day, we were at Gates lakeside by noon and the local band was superb playing 60’s and 70’s music, what else would postpone our paddle.  It delayed our launch for over two hours as we listened and talked with the organizer all about the area.  Finally, Paddle Boy with JoJo and Duke under each arm, headed down to the lake.  The last of the songs echoed across as we paddled away.  

It was a warm one and soon Paddle Boy was searching for some shade for that wonderful NUTSUP.  I decided to take a jump off in the middle of the lake to cool off before my NUTSUP. 

The wood fired pizza would have to be another time because we were starving at 5:30 and it didn’t start until 6:30, and frankly it is a bit commonplace since we hang with the Hoovers.  We never did see anything about the Garlic Fest on the way back to Pemberton  although we saw a hand written sign announcing it on the way to the lake.  We were told that the owners open their land/house and have all kinds of celebrations for the immediate community.  They had said something about a garlic pot-luck in the evening, so it is a very small community affair, all hand written on cardboard signs is how this community rolls, although in front of the bakery it says Open Saturday 10-2pm on a wooden sign.    The small community vibe was really evident on this final Saturday in August. 

Well, where does one go on the way to anywhere if John is involved, a brewery.  The Farm Brewery was a 20-minute drive from Pemberton and it was in beautiful farm country with towering Canadian Mountains.  

There never seems to be any stouts, and John was a bit disappointed in that.  But it was for sure the most flower filled beer garden that I have ever seen.

Then you could walk around to the Sunflower Maze on the property 

and visit the cutest little brown pigs.   

Driving in this area in the last three days, I have never seen so many self-serve-honor-system farm stands, many of them that have refrigerators in them.  There are many small farms all over the place. 

But as we got ready to leave for the remote Birkenhead Lake, we were going to do the Nairn Falls Hike right from our campsite first, not pulling another Linville Falls VA experience by never hiking the falls from our campground because of logistics.  

We hadn’t worked our quads for days and wanted to keep up with that endurance too.  

Onto Birkenhead Lake, but first a stop in town for supplies and the Pony, where John found a Salted Carmel Stout from Vancouver which is one of the top three Canadian Beers.  

To end this post, just some Lisa broadcasting about navigating the BC Provincial campgrounds if you ever find yourself needing to so.  We have several reservations on the spreadsheet after Whistler, and a few we need to find along the way before we get to Vancouver Island.  Most have been reserved, but if canceled less than than 48 hour in advance they become game for “First come First Serve”  until the next On-line reservation.  So there is a two-day window of arriving at a campground and driving around looking for the placard of “1 or 2 night available” at a specific site because that very site most likely is reserved after that. Summer camping reservation in BC are generally sold out.   This is how we got both Birkenhead Lake and Narin Falls  Campgrounds. The park attendants get word of a cancellation within two days, and they place a placard saying it is available for 1 or 2 days, usually there is no cell service for us to check.   Our attendant said our site was available for 3 days at Nairn Falls and we went for all three, but then a different attendant came along on the final reservation day, and said it had been reserved on-line for the final day we had gotten.  Luckily ,we had already decided to leave early for Birkenhead Lake after the Narin Falls hike.  This could have been problem, the first attendant should not have let us have it for 3 nights because someone went in an reserved it for the 3 night. Turns out there were all kinds of places to stay in Pemberton to overnight in Parking Lots if needed.  So this is a pretty good place to travel without reservations.  When we got to Birkenhead Lake. we drove around looking for a 2 night and only 1 night was available, and since we couldn’t find the attendant just took a 1 day available site.  After John had unloaded bikes and SUPs, of course, the attendant then came around and told us the one site that was available for 2 nights.  John was a bit cranky about that because he needed a nap after his two Salted Caramel Porters, but luckily it was just a few up and Paddle Boy under-armed it with JoJo and Duke.  After his nap he was a cream puff and we did a reconnaissance of the Birkenhead Lake facilities.  Both Nairn Falls and Birkhead Lake only had vaulted toilets but those Canadians do a super job of keeping them clean and not smelling bad.   Generally the sites are very private.