Windjamming on the J & E Riggin, September 2024

The J & E Riggin,  an Oyster Boat turned Windjammer (Windjammer has historically been a derogatory term);  after all jamming is usually not considered a positive phenomenon, but it has become term that has adopted quite a nostalgic meaning in the last decades as diesel has displaced the wind for vessels in both passenger excursions and fishing.  

Windjamming is a lifestyle that seeks to experience the simple ways to enjoy the maritime under sail.  

There is exclusive cooking over a wood fired stove and oven.  

The only propelling  power is a  small motorized skiff to push the great wooden vessel  from the dock or to take passengers ashore to enjoy a harbor town or lobster boil.   At least that is what we experienced during our 4 days on the J & E. Riggin.  

When modern people are to experience the nostalgic but not too hardcore – afterall we are on vacation; Joceyln and her crew would create these incredible gourmet meals three times a day, not to mention appetizer teasers and always a delicious dessert.  She prides herself with using local butchers and farm sources, and she always gave an entertaining menu introduction upon her ringing of the ships bell to summon us for mealtime.  She made that first rainy day cozy as many of us huddled into the galley/dining wing and she served us a delicious homemade chili that was perfect for the needed warmth.  

Rain still lets the show go on, just with a great bit more dampness (Let’s not complain – I’m sure our rain attire was much less weighty compared to ages ago). The Riggin is a schooner from the era circa 1927 with no handle driven winches like modern boats.  Our heavy gaff booms for the main and foresail were attached on giant mast rings making raising and lowering a crew-intensive feat.  And then there was the hoisting of an iron anchor with a heavy steel chain using a pumping-style capstan with at least muscley crew mates on either side of this heavy duty hoisting winch.

Luckily our photography-focused cruise with Tracy and Sean only had one such day, but we were all glad that we had rain gear that included pants, as it was quite persistent and part of the fun was trying to take part in what the crew of six was doing. 

 Day one included meeting our captain and crew, settling into our “spacious and luxurious staterooms”, going over some trip details, selecting our mug for the trip duration, and learning how to use the two onboard pump vacuum toilets. Although working as advertised, this was perhaps the onboard necessity that was the least enjoyable aspect of our adventure.  Although showering is advertised as available, I don’t believe anyone partook in the same toilet space shower closet. Not a problem for us full-time van lifers as this is a typical duration between showers, but as we were getting back to the dock, hot showers were certainly a hot topic of conversation.  Although all was kept clean, germaphobes might be a bit uncomfortable, but after a few days you get used to it.  Besides having a sink with drinkable cold water, each of the “super spacious staterooms” had their very own metal red pitcher that you could take down to the galley and fill with hot water and take back down to your gleaming stainless steel sink to enjoy a nice warm cloth wash if you so desired, again foot pumping out the water if needed.   

Our first nights slumber was upon the Rockland Dock,  just to get the feel of our ship and have time to get into town for a missed item.  Besides a depth finder and a bit of modern navigation/communication safety equipment, there were three on-deck refrigerators for some modern conveniences like our gourmet meals. There was also an ice chest dedicated to whatever guests wanted besides the all-day beverages provided.   Well did we  did have a dual USB charging station in each “spacious and luxurious stateroom.”  On the first gray morning, the Riggin was out from her dock under skiff power, and the sails were set and we were underway to enjoy the amazing Maine shoreline before the rains came, which was soon after we shoved off and the sail hoisting had begun.  This first full rainy day was nicely windy, and we made good time arriving at Bucks Harbor to anchor for the night, hoping for the forecasted promise of fair weather when we awoke.  

Trish and I hung out downunder and tried to be helpful with the stowaway of the non-perishables as we got warmed. 

Every night a great canvas awning would be erected under the boom so some semi-dry space could be managed and the dinner bell was rung.

The first night’s comfort supper of baked herbed chicken thighs was announced and plated with green beans and risotto and handed up to us right from the warmth of the stove – to savor.  The “kitchen/dining wing” was always open to us, but the well-oiled machine that was going on in the galley during mealtimes made one a bit concerned about not wanting to impede progress.   Many of us stopped to enjoy the warmth of the galley wing and a nightcap before retiring after this first dinner to our quilts and wool blankets in those “spacious and luxurious staterooms” of which Captain Justin described. 

Morning Has Broken and Captain Justin skiffed groups into Bucks Harbor so we could get a bit of a walkabout even though the town wasn’t quite open at this pre-9 O’Clock hour. 

So many shipmates – including Chris and his dad Bob, were experienced photographers traveling all over the world!

I guess the dilapidated auto repair shop never got to this poor truck.

The weather was on the turn around and we were looking forward to the sun which was clearly making its way through those clouds and would yield a nice wind for sailing.

Then came the burnoff as exquisite, overwhelming warmth of the sun, quite contrasting to the prior day of rain – making the whole windjammer experience even more authentic somehow as it heightened a sense of appreciation better than everyday being perfect weather. A gnarly weather day on the Riggin would be compensated by the exceptional fellowship and excellent cuisine at each meal.   And hot coffee, tea and chocolate were always available in the toasty wood-burning stove galley/dining wing of the     .  

The Day2 weather was delightful 

and we sailed past lighthouses 

and performed bowsprit dances as we cruised along to the uninhabited Russ Island.   

We got there promptly in late afternoon because Captain Justin would go skiffing off to Stonington to acquire the creatures which were to be that authentic Maine supper.  Again the well oiled crew prepped and brought the entire feast and set up for our first lobster remote island experience.  The fires were already burning when passengers arrived for a short hike on one of the many uninhabited Maine Islands, but this one had a sandy beach perfect for staging a lobster feast!

And oh, was it a tremendous feast in the most beautiful sky! 

This is the way to have lobster, not in a lobster roll sandwich or as an addition, but just steamed and dipped in butter with a baked potato and grilled corn cob where you can dribble the juices right into the sand, no lobster bib required here! 

The fire was hot and perfect for dessert where the mundane graham cracker was replaced by a fresh warm pizzelle right from the hot iron.  

This was a magnificent delicious experience on a remote island no less. A sister Windjammer, the Ladona was doing the same a bit further down the sandy beach. We got some nice photos of her.  

Such a fine dining experience on the beach with the most beautiful sunset.  

The Riggin looked elegant in the various stages of the sunset light.  

No Sound of Slinece here, just some music on board to end the night with some windjammer mates who like to sing! 

Although we were getting accustomed to all the night noises, the next thing I heard was the 8am bell for breakfast and our lovely Jocelyn announcing the menu as she did at every meal.  

We had the opportunity to be skiffed out to the quaint town of Stonington to browse around the various cute shops in this maritime harbor town. 

Then  once again we were hauling up the mighty anchor and heading to our final destination.

Maneuvering in between islands and near lighthouses, we sailed on to another beautiful day, but somewhere the wind died and the skiff pushed us into the tranquil Long Cove.  

More photography tips and conversation with passengers as we enjoyed the very peaceful and relatively warm evening while trying to capture the beauty of it all through the lens or through the rigging.

Captain Justin lowered the sailing skiff and took those takers on the water in this beaut of a little  gaff rig sailboat. There was an incredible orange glow of the sundowning.  

And the rest of us would enjoy a headstarter on the appetizer of a delicate herbed lamb chop and stuffed date a’la Rocelyn.

A fellow sailor—Matt, on a 32 foot boat pulled up, and he and his son ended up staying for supper. 

Evening would find him playing his mandolin in the small music gathering that had assembled again under the stars  Awoke to another beautiful final morning, not much in the way of wind though.

Another lighthouse! 

Another beautiful view.

This final brunch with homemade bagels and brined salmon and delightful new friends, Warren and Nancy. 

One more raising of the mighty iron anchor, and we were dockside back and Rockland where it all began 4 days ago. Thanks to our fabulous crew of Max, Louise, Skye and Eric they were incredibly, friendly, helpful and so muscularly capable!

This adventure was extra special as some of our Ridgecrest family, Jim and Trish and Terri and Steve, joined us.  And thanks to Mary for touting this windjammer cruise to me in the first place. There are all types of 3 to 6 day windjamming focus adventures on the J & E Riggins.  From music, to rug hooking, to Windjammer tie-togethers.  Maybe that is the only positive jam I can think of is a bunch of these sailing vessels jammed together as passengers hop from boat to boat and enjoy the attributes and crews of each.   That’s my story about why they call this  windjamming!!