Quidi Vidi
The most picturesque Harbor town, and I got the reflection – no wind so atypical, but it happens.
Quidi Vidi Lake Loop provided the easy 3-mile thirst build-up for the Quidi Vidi Brewery. We had boondocked for an entire week when we arrived at Quidi Vidi ready to take on the Brewery. It was under construction so it was a bit awkward really. I had a cherry milkshake sour which was pretty good, no stouts or porters to be found. We needed a nap after all that typical bar fried food and thought we would return later. It rained quite steadily that night and we decided not to venture out at all since we were a bit underwhelmed with the beer selection, although servers were super nice and let us move upstairs where the Wi-Fi at least was connectible.
Parking is extremely tight in the area and we lucked out and found the perfect spot to begin our Canada Day Celebrations and decided to stay for two nights.
It was right next to the Food Truck / Beer Garden area that again would be perfect for the thirst-quenching Signal Hill Hike we had planned for that morning.
The best part of Quidi Vidi was the people we met in the Beer Tent after our hike.
Briana and her two girlfriends who were friends since grade school and musically connected to small St John’s music bars. Briana told me about the Capelin Roll at Norman Cove which she would text me about upon getting info. John convinced one of them to get an Eagle Face paint to match his own that he had to get on this festive day of celebration in the beer garden area as we listened to two young musicians play acoustically with excellent vocals.
Terry and Sarah, a young couple in the hospitality industry, were going to switch careers to accounting and nursing. We connected over Mallory Johnson, a musician who we saw at Stanfest, and I had seen a poster that she, along with another musical name, the Cormiers, were playing at a church in Topsail. She said they live right by it, so timing works out where we may see them again since I want to go to this concert.
Brittany and Steph, who got called out as we stood in the Burger line because they had brought their beers outside the fenced beer garden area. We ended up finding a table together, as John in his typical manner enquired about their tattoos. Ended up chatting quite a while and as Brittany is working with troubled teens in the mental health field, the subject is always quite compelling and we got another round of beers as we got acquainted. And Steph owns a donut business in town.
The food trucks sold out of all their food, and we decided a quick lay down before the Celtic Connections Concert that was scheduled in the Gazebo for Canada Day Night on Quidi Vidi Lake. It was such a beautifully still evening, a Newfoundland rarity, and we just lay down on the grass and listened – so relaxing. Another mile added our wanderings for the day.
In this most picturesque harbor was an eclectic shack where Skipper Ring’s Da Stage 27 would take you cod fishing or touring from his dock. His card say Quidi Vidi Storytelling and Walking Tours too (709) 730-7943. Skipper was not in the morning when I stopped, but talked to a few and heard all about Skipper’s breaking the rowing record in 1985 that was there for 80 years. Seems like it would be fun to get in touch and do a walking tour – he also is quite a musician too and one could buy a CD.
St John’s
This is the biggest city in NL and it is known to have great music in the pubs and a municipal campground. The weather was to be rainy and we were on our 10 day record for boondocking and no showers. It was time. Full Hook-ups in the Wi-Fi Loop. They even have really good 5G which we have not found anywhere else in Newfoundland. The Wi-Fi looks to be throttled because it is slower than our Hotspot now, and I have a lot of blogging to catch up on.
There are lots of walking trails, but the connections between them can be difficult. I found this as a resource. Seems like all over St. John there is really good 5G cell service. Trails – City of St Johns.
Cape Spear Lighthouse
Lots of whale action at the cliffs below the lighthouse, but too far for iPhone pics. More incredible views to be taken in. Awesome cliffs from the well maintained trail.
We hiked about 1 mile down the Cape Spear East Coast Path.
It was a warm day, but upon returning to the lighthouse a cool breeze was welcomed to complete this hike. We had Vinny out and about and decided it was time to go try out the Newfoundland Embassy Pub.
East Coast Hikes St John’s and North
The 336 km East Coast trail runs along the eastern edge of the Avalon Peninsula between Topsail Beach and Cappahayden.
Along the trail, you can see stunning ocean views, huge towering cliffs, lighthouses, abandoned settlements, waterfalls and whales. Since we are exclusively day and good weather hikers, we did only a few sections that came recommended by various people we met. In another visit it would be cool to do day hikes tour where the tour would bring your stuff to the next overnight spot. We always did out and-backs except for in the Signal Hill area where there were loops and criss-cross trails to be had.
Stiles Cove
This was a highly recommended trail by several people. They said to park at Satellite Rd to access where a ¼ mile to the trail on the coast where it could be taken North or South. Weather dictated these as evening hikes and we decided to stay in the gravel flat Stiles Trail Parking Area, right off Satellite Road. There were two 3 car parking areas of gravel and flat and generally pretty quiet at night.
Red Head Cove – South on the trail from Satellite Rd entrance
So many incredibly steep cliffs
So much emerald water
The hike was mostly tree covered until we got to Red Head where there was a nice pasture from which to view the Red Head Cove unobstructed by branches.
This hike featured some huge slanted flat rock in the beginning although we didn’t make it all the way to Flatrock on the trail.
Seems like flat rocks are a hot fishing place and even as we hiked back around 8pm there were fishermen hiking the trail to go to the flat rock where we hope they don’t catch a big one that could pull them in instead of them pulling the fish out.
Rain the next morning and afternoon, and another good evening was in the forecast, so we decided that we would hike north.
But first we decided to take the 15 minute drive Lorina’s Restaurant in Torbay. Food, atmosphere, people and Wi-Fi were all super and got charging, I phone back-ups, and whale videos done as we waited for our calm partly sunny evening.
Small Point and Dog Hole – North on the Stiles Cove Trail
Stiles Cove Path Day 2 was equally as awestriking.
There were fewer places for unobstructed views.
Venturing out between trees for an unobstructed view could mean a 100’s feet tumble to the emerald green waters, so we did a lot of peeking.
Walking over this freefall waterfall that was just over the edge of the trail. I didn’t do a peek over from this waterfall but got a good view of the waterfall from across the rock ledge.
The dog hole were two caves that had a booming(not really barking) when the wave hit just right, at least that’s what we thought.
There was a really eerier dark thickly covered spot on the trail to – no views here. We were the only ones on this trail today for this 5-mile out and back
The trail had steps and double boards through wet areas as we saw a few waterfall sources pass under us. This trail was not up to the normal level repair of the Elves where we had hiked thus far, but we are pretty far north, and I guess less traveled. If there was a broken board the one next to it was always solid and allowed easy passage, just a bit more balancing for us, always good to practice. There were probably about 50 such places in the 2 ½ mile section we hiked. There was very little steepness and such a pleasant walk in the woods with incredible views.
It was so nice to hike on soft dirt that had nice decayed pine needles which was most of it.
Torbay Point, Cobbler’s Path Trail
This should have been called whale point because we saw so many frolicking.
Another local recommended East Coast Trail, Cobblers Path it itself was incredible.
We were killing time and decided to head up here from St. John’s just before the Newfoundland Folk Fest doors open
The hike and the gorgeous views would have been enough, but we were mesmerized by the whales for over an hour.
John doesn’t usually like to stop for so long on a hike, but the whales were so close you could hear the exhales as they spouted, perfect lulling for a trail nap.
Another Newfoundland awesome day.
Cobbler’s Path to Red Cliff
The most majestic long drawn out, beautifully exquisite Newfoundland coastline is on this trail.
Emerald green coves with vertical rock cliffs
The super steep drop-offs to the crashing waves below
What a way to end our last East Coast Hike in Newfoundland.
It has been incredible and there are still so many to be hiked.
North Head Trail Loop
They say this is the oldest Signal Hill Trails and has quite the jaw dropping cliffs that accompany “The Rock” designation.
Coastline hiking at its best with those Elves providing plenty or handrails and steps.
Beautiful views on the St John’s Harbor Narrows.
Deep crevices to ponder.
The treacherous edges hike along the rock with a view St John’s industrial port.
The in-land return of the All Trail Loop after Harbour Dock, did not reflect the fastidiousness of the Trail Elves to whom we have become accustomed. We wound our way back down on these steeper, not so scenic sections and we ended up saying hi to someone on their front porch because the trail went 5 feet to their entrance as they were talking to a neighbor. We had parked way up high on Battery Rd and found the trail which was marked, but also seemed to go through houses side yards which seemed a bit awkward.
Perhaps this is why the local hiking materials started at the Signal Hill Parking Lot and didn’t do All Trails North Head Loop as we were doing.
There are lots of trails that criss-cross in this area to hike on and perhaps a better loop is available.
St John’s Experiences
The Newfoundland People
So many genuine, good hearted fun people. We met Cindy and Rob at the Elk’s Club happy hour as we wanted to find a place to park so we could easily walk to the Newfoundland Labrador Folkfest.
The next day they invited us to their house for an over the top gourmet brunch of Bona Vista smoked salmon, eggs benny, fruit, extended with homemade sesame ice cream and sweets.
It is so heart warming meeting people who are so welcoming, but this is the way of the Newfoundland people Ron told us. We all so desperately need to live like them.
Newfoundland Labrador Folk Festival
They say this 49th may be their last NL Folkfest as the last years have been losing money. Poor weather has plagued the fest, but it really was only rainy for the Saturday morning session. We were thrilled to hear The Once and the incredible vocal harmonies of By The Glow of the Kerosene Light once again.
Also the powerhouse blues guitarist/vocal Matt Amderson ripped it up on Friday night with Rockin In the Free World
Serena Ryder had incredible energy and stage presence although at the end of the set the drum beat overtook the lyrics. Camping Music fests are still my favorite, but we did get to camp only 20 minute walk at our Elks club which was very quiet. Jeff Pittman the storyteller troubadour has such hysterical lyrics. Len O’Neill with the Kid Couldn’t Find a Calling really spoke to me. Best of all we got to see the Salt Beef Junkies again.
The Polky Band from Poland who played a unique stringed instrument called the Suka which translated means “Bitch.” They had so much fun with the audience during this enjoyable weekend.
Signal Hill
This very famous place that broadcasted messages from Europe and America as usual went back and forth between English and French control, but eventually the British held it. A planned stop at the Visitor’s Center Chocolate Café for lunch and what else but Chocolate Gelato was to break up out hike.
We even got to see the noon cannon firing a dozen times and the Parks Canada entrance was free. Whoo-hoo. The orientation movie was really good and depicted the hard life that the people who lived there had because of the terrible weather. A bit of history mixed in with the extraordinary ocean views is always in our wheel house of enjoyment. St John’s harbor is bustling with industry especially when cruise ships come from away.
This Canada Day was an 8-mile day between hiking the Cuckholds Cove Trail to the Ladies View and Up to Signal Hill and back down the Burma Road Gravel Path. This wide gravel path was not too exciting except for passing a few ponds, but it was fastest so we could get to the beer that was calling from the Big Blue Tent in Quidi Vidi. Ladies Lookout where the women would wait for the men to come home had some beautiful lookouts.
Titanic Exhibition
Learned lots about the many deficiencies and failures that contributed to this disaster. The Wealthy Business Tycoons circumventing many safety features including having enough life boats when voyage was only about ½ full, was just one of them. The passenger messages that were really novel to send back to Europe were more important than the repeated warnings from multiple sources about icebergs. This first day we scoped out pubs for music as well, but best we shower and charge up Vinny.
The Rooms Museum
This is top notch Museum that we walked to from Pippy Park Campground along the Atlantic Maritime trail (turning left) to cross Allandale Rd. and then heading right and finding the trail the leads to Rennie River Walk which you can take all the way to Quidi Vidi Lake or bail of to a side street and head downtown. Got our first good moose pic here.
The Pubs
Newfoundland Embassy
A pub at which Faith, the Quidi Vidi tent performers, had a regular gig. It was early but we were thirsty from our Cape Spear Hike. Met Paula and Sheila whose 63rd birthday was today. I too was 62 born in 62 last year, just like Sheila pointed out.
O’Reilly’s Pub
Salt Beef Junkies provided the music for the early evening with three guys ages 13, 16 and 19 years-old. They were really good and they also are on the schedule for the NL Folkfest. They also said they had been selected to travel with Rum Ragged, a famous Canadian group. Small world again, we met a couple and the woman went to my high School, Mt. Pleasant about 4 years prior to me. It was time to go home.
Terre
A restaurant in the Alt Hotel had been recommended by out Quidi Vidi Tent friends. Very upscale and delicious, we were so ready for non-fried bar food or my own one pot and a frying pan meals. Of course, John asked for Jalapeno in his Espresso Martini and the bartender even liked it. Our waitress suggested that we go to Burgeo. This was the second person who had done so, I found a camping reservation Sandbanks Provincial Park
Erin’s Irish Pub
Irish session music 7-9pm. Trying to be in a 4th of July celebration mood, but it’s difficult.
Yellow Belly Brewery
It’s a cool location and decided step in. John was still hungry and he got the best ever mashed potatoes with gravy. They serve a short ribs dinner when we return for the Folkfest.
Ship Pub
Singer Songwriter guitarist who was very good. This was one of the big pub venues that we have visited, but still small. The band with a trombone and two trumpets among typical band instruments, made it a bit loud so we called our taxi. I also read they do some type of a folkfest here too. We were not walking back. There are lots of hills in St. John.
Duke of Duckworth
Fish and Chips was the specialty and you could get them pan fried as well. And they even stencilled my beer with a California Scene.
Pop’s Diner
We visited Pop’s Diner 3 times all together and excellent breakfast that they served until 4pm – right up John’s alley. I stopped in at the Photography shop who was listed as a GoPro dealer and finally found out how to get my photos off the camera with a direct line. Go into Photos on the Ipad and eventually the device will pop up icon the same area as all the albums etc.
St. John’s is quite hilly and there are hardly any bike lanes.
St John’s was a really welcoming, musical and fun city.
East Coast Hikes St John’s and North
Red Head Cove – South on the trail from Satellite Rd entrance
Small Point and Dog Hole – North on the Stiles Cove Trail
Torbay Point, Cobbler’s Path Trail
Travels with Vinny VanGo 
Thank you for sharing! What an amazing tour you gave the reader — just like being there to see this New Found Land, a land like no other place in the world, so beautiful. …I spent many July’s north of Toronto, past Peterborough, and Apsley, ONT, up at Jack’s Lake. I love Canada and love the Canadians!
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