Glacier NP, Westside

What a difference a day makes.  We had decided NOT to take the Going to the Sun Road over  Logan Pass to West Glacier  as planned because during our last night in East Glacier we had 75mph Saint Mary wind gusts and were glad that we had accidentally gotten into a cabin because it was a wind storm like no other. (evidently they are used to gusts in the 100mph.   And the morning brought smoke to the valley, there really are mountains behind our cabin and Vinny in the photo below.  

Who knew what rocks and tree debris littered the narrow way along the  Going to the Sun Road – Vinny is not going to  find out.   We stopped at Johnson Café in St Mary to have breakfast – not – too late so lunch it was.  The café is filled from top to bottom with historical items, papers, recipes, photos, art work – they provide the history of its 100 years of existence up on the hill is Saint Mary. Super nice wait staff and good homemade food for which they are known.  The other benefit of this route was a stop at the QIYO bakery and Mercantile.  The smoke was irritating, so as we drove, we even put on masks. The smoke presented us with not quite the sunset across the Lake MacDonald  that we had hoped for. 

On our first day at West Glacier, the air was not much different than St Mary as we found our Campsite at Apgar, the Visitors center and got our SUPs inspected. We had to unroll and they got a week long certification tag attached to each.   As luck would have it – our first night at Apgar,  and it rained for a few hours early in the morning;  we could see the mountains across the lake in the morning.  As the sun shone through the blue cloudy sky, we decided that we had better take the opportunity to drive the Going to the Sun Road to Logan Pass and see the mighty Glacier Valley.  Fires in Canada, Oregon, Idaho and Spokane Washington were burning – who knows how long clear air would prevail. 

Going To the Sun Road

There were so many incredible pull-out with parking that have incredible views of the valley. 

The road is tight in places especially when the rock overhang juts out a bit at Vinny’s extra tall stature, but we always seem to find parking so the driver can look out as well. 

Our favorite was a stop was just after Weeping Wall area where we got out and wandered down a short path to a valley which is the most popular photo op spot in the park. So here’s one of me.

Look at our primo lunch spot.  

This was a really big parking area that boarded the valley. Looking upward to the flowers and the downward and across the Going to the Sun Road – all quite incredible. and bonus the  flowers made it even more amazing.

This was a really big parking area that boarded the valley. Looking upward to the flowers and the downward and across the Going to the Sun Road – all quite incredible. and bonus the  flowers made it even more amazing.

Then we wandered up from this vantage point to thick purple flowers.  Photos and videos can’t capture the awe of the valleys and peaks and what is left of the glaciers. There was very little snow last year, but the green of the valleys reminded us a lot of being in the Austria Alps.    

Most importantly we got to see that beautiful Valley which may or may not be possible in the next days as fires continue to burn all around.    Logan Pass Parking Area was wild with cars and they even close it temporarily when it gets to gridlocked, so we didn’t stop for our 3-hour limited time window.  Tomorrow we had a shuttle pass up to Hike Hidden Lake. 

Hidden Lake Trail

This is among the most beautiful of all hikes we have done in our life.  The glacial mountains, the lake of many blues, the green valleys, and lots of those cute white mountain goats milling around. This hike requires a slideshow to even capture an iota of its beauty, and really does it no justice.

Hidden Lake overlook is the first mile, much on boardwalk and steps  as elevation increases about 700 feet.  

We decided to do the final mile and half down to the lake which mean you need to come up it in the full sun. 

Several Big Horn lay disguised in the gravels, but their horns were quite the stop and see. 

Overlook implies height and the Lake was another mile down with long but steep switch backs, not so bad going down but coming up was a different story.

The lake was glacial and although Julie would have taken a dive – that’s not our vibe so we just had a nice rest watching the obnoxious chipmunks as one even bit John’s finger as he lay on the gravel. 

There was a pit toilet, but as I approached another mountain goat and baby were blocking the path quite unbothered by us humans.  With a bit of persuasion we got them to move to the side so we could pass.

We even saw a grizzly that we evidently bypassed on the lower trail and did not discover it in the greenery until we were well above him – just as well.

There would be another set of goats on the way up who were milling around in a gully and they too had to be persuaded off the path. Others who where walking way high on a rocky ledge  

The day would turn out to be quite beautiful and we were relieved that smoke was in the far distance and the view o the lake incredible. 

Highline Trail

A smoke hazy day on the Highline. 

The first mile or so put us right above and along the Going-to-the-Sun Road, only we were ascending higher.  The view of the valley is beautiful, but in our case still quite hazy with smoke. 

This trail starts off with a narrow walk along a rock ledge which was really not as scary as it looks except if you have a grizzly bear coming down the opposite way that you were walking.  

The NPS volunteer said that was the case earlier that morning and about 20 hikers had to back up down the trail.  No bear here but this was our walk on the section:  Now that is the way to get the adrenaline going.  We didn’t even see a bear on the entire trail.  I guess that is an advantage to getting late starts like we usually do.  We saw the beautiful white mountain goat and her baby. 

 Mama must have take lesson from “Hollywood”  in the Tetons because her pose was so elegant.

The Highline trail runs along the Pacific side of the Continental Divide. We had the opportunity to hike up to Grinnell Glacier Overlook from the trail, but the 12.3 miles that we had committed to was already pushing our fitness level. We had Grinnell Glacier planned while we are staying in Many Glacier area of the Park so we opted out from the Highline trail entrance from the Highline Trail. 

There were green areas and rocky areas, but mostly no shade making it a bit more tiring. 

We met a big horn sheep about halfway;  he too seemed skilled at posing for the camera.

The last five miles or so went back into low shrubbery with an occasional tree patch, and it was all steep downhill. Really not very exciting hiking.  The top part of the Highline Trail is what is beautiful looking down to the valley and in my opinion it is best to hike in a mile or so and then hike back. 

The trail passed by Granite Park Chalet which I guess is almost impossible to get a reservation.  But it is a building that sits on a hill – we were too tired to even go up and see. 

The Highline Trail turns into the Granite Park Trail on All Trails which turns into the Loop Trail which is steep and downhill.  The advantage of doing the Loop is that the shuttle bus will pick you up.  It was definitely NOT worth it to do the whole thing and would just start the Highline and go back with the time you have remaining. I had the idea to take my own advice and  we were going do a Take 2 on Highline Trail only for a mile or so during a much clearer day.  But after getting a primo parking spot on a Saturday and lacing up my hiking boots, it was CLOSED. Evidently there was a dead carcass on the trail and that means the bears were coming and CLOSED. Well we stopped on a major outlook before Logan.  Let’s compare day on similar photos in smoke and little smoke. 

What a difference the day makes.

Sacred Dancing Falls / McDonald Falls

As we decided to head back down to West Glacier and remember to put on our Glacier Guide Along App so we would know the exciting spot at which to stop because there were many along the way.  We stopped at Sacred Dancing Falls and were told that another 600 yards would be McDonald Falls.  

The bright aqua of the water between the two was mezmorizing as the water rushed through the rocks and in contrast to the smoke haze of the atmosphere.

We then saw the John’s trail and how could we not take this short 2 mile jaunt through the woods.  A bit on the road side in places, but it was nice to get in a bit of exercise and it was nice walking through woods with small up and downs. 

The McDonald Lodge was on the way down and we were starved.  No waiting at this historic lodge with iconic huge lobby lodgepole beams and general National Park rustic grandeur.  This was among the best NP lodge meals (I had lamb shank and John had rib eye), besides Signal Mountain Restaurant in the Tetons – but there was no grand lobby there, only the grand “Hollywood” with his grand rack who hung on the wall and not around the campground. 

Stand Up Paddling to Rocky Point Near Fish Creek

Our final day of paddling – Rocky Point near Fish Creek would be our destination to this incredibly calm best ever paddling conditions.   

It was really nice beach the SUPs and hike for only about half an hour. But the mountains in the north end of the lake were in a thick haze especially as the day went on. 

Our first day, it was a bit clearer, and we saw a bald eagle in a tree.  

Then two elk showed up.

It would have been beautiful to see the mountains and lake disappear into the distance, but the paddling was really excellent and we did a Nap Upon the Stand Up Paddle Board (NUTSUP) right near the cove of Fish Creek Campground – always relaxing to bob on the water.    

We paddled three days.

Bonus about the Apgar location is that you can pull up to the Apgar Village Beach and get ice cream. 

High Number campsites on A loop 54 and higher make it quite convenient to transport SUP to the lake.  All SUP must have tags certifying inspections and we were even checked by staff as we did NUTSUP by the Fish Creek.

Avalanche Lake

The parking area to this hike is always mobbed and there is always a slow down for this popular hike. One of my bloggers said it was really rather over-rated, but there is a short boardwalk walk through the cedars that is good for non-hikers.

The extra two miles to the lake is shaded by the tall cedar canopies and I think also protects us from the smoke. But there is lots of dead trees on the forest surface and not exactly a walk through a vibrant forest.  Somehow we ended up with 7 miles that day, but it was a very suitable work out with ups and downs throughout and I tried to find the green pretty patches. 

Rocks have been carved in swirls at the beginning of the trail and that reminded us of Jasper in British Columbia.  

Perhaps if the smoky haze was not present the lake would have seemed prettier.

Summary 

Unfortunately smoke  has been a thing for most of our time at Glacier NP. We’ve had a few clear days between varying degrees of haze. Fortunately,  it didn’t smell smokey mostly. So it didn’t interfere too much with hiking.  The distant views of the mountains, whether paddling Lake MacDonald, or hiking or stopping at a Going to the Sun gazing spot – it would have been nice to see them more clearly. 

West Glacier KOA

We were told not to miss it.  This is one of the top KOAs in the country – So we thought that would be our last splurge  stop in Glacier – laundry and relax and charge everything up.  They have music every night in a lovely relaxed grassy area with Adirondack chairs and umbrella covered couches  with a bring your own or go to the airstream bar.  And  talk about petunias. They are incredible !!  There was T-Shirt  tie dying and telescoping at a star party.  People were really nice and shade couches with fire tables. A1+++ everything – ice cream til 10pm and a great out door covered cafe great food and service. 

We were gonna do the Highline Do-over, but enjoyed the drive up the Going to the Sun under these better conditions. 

Apgar Campground

One could take a 20 minute walk on the Apgar Bike Path to the Visitor’s Center where the shuttle to Logan Pass loads. One must have fast Internet to get a shuttle pass the 30 days before you need it.  I had tried with Idaho Internet and finally got Micro-Managing-Mackie on the situation and he secured shuttle passes on 3 separate dates for us.  Not only is parking at Logan Pass horrendous, but there is a three-hour limit so some of the longer hikes like Highline Trail or Hidden Lake are not possible in 3 hours. 

Avalanche Campground

Campsites are nicely situated in the Cedars, but they have roots and scraped Vinny as one was exposed as we turned in – nothing major but those cedars extend out past their trunks with those roots. 

 We were glad that we double booked Avalanche Campground  so we could get there late one evening after our paddle, and do the leisurely breakfast and not have to be out by 11am.  We got to hike and then eat dinner before heading back to Apgar where the SUP were living.  

Way Down South

We are groupies now for this local duo band. Originally we stumbled upon them at Freda’s the out café right outside the West Entrance.  They really switch up the sound because both play two instruments (Tina – banjo and Keyboards and Carey, songwriter,  on guitar and mandolin) – lots of good lyrics but also do some covers to mix it. We also went to see them at Stonefly and on or last night in Glacier. 

Restaurants

Freda’s Café right out the West End Gate is nicely situated outside with adironack chairs and shaded picnic tables.  They seem to have local music on many nights.

Stonefly Saloon in Caran who had delicious savory pies which were pastry crust and freshly backed. We came here as groupies of Way Down South since they were playing here.  Really nice outdoor venue.

The one and only sit down Apgar Village Café had typical fare, but very convenient for when we staggered off the Logan Pass Bus bus after Hidden Lake Hike. We had driven to Highline Trail so we could run our generator.  Very little sun these days in Apgar.